Cinderella Live Action 2015…You Shall Go To The Ball…Pictures in the Snow

It has been roughly two weeks since my last post. I have had these pictures done for a while now. Just haven’t had the time to go through them. Not the kind of time I would have liked anyways. I wrapped up a commission for someone and life just seemed to get in the way. I also managed to make a few baby outfits and none of my make nine for the year. One is all set and ready to sew, just haven’t had the time to sew it.

But enough of the holdup. This post isn’t about my lack of sewing for the year or my lack of being productive. And I was productive in the organizing phase, soon to be even more organized once I get a system down. No, this post isn’t about any of that. This post is about the final pictures for Cinderella. At least the final for now. I need to take them in the summer with some old buildings somewhere, or new stone buildings. But without further words, here they are. The lovely pictures were taken by my sister. She was kind enough to trudge through the snow in the freezing cold with me to get these shots. We were out there for almost a couple of hours. And while I had on all the layers of the petticoats to protect me from the cold, she did not. And I just love these pictures.

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Cinderella Live Action 2015…You Shall Go To The Ball… Part Seven: Wig & Shoes (Petticoat Adjustments)

This one shall be an easy post. At least in the grand scheme of things. Let’s talk about the part that I thought would be the most challenging out of it all. And how wrong I was in saying it was impossible.

The wig, having never styled a wig before it, was a daunting task. I purchased a wig online from Wig Is Fashion. Great store for wigs, reasonably priced, fast shipping. Great quality. I purchased two lace front wigs. One for Cinderella and another for Commander Lexa. The colors I received were not what was pictured. The Lexa wig isn’t as dark as it appears on the website, so I was unable to use that for the character. And the Cinderella wig was not my shade of blonde. The color did match up really well with the photo though. But I have deep dark brown almost black hair, same with my eyebrows, which I tried very hard to lighten them. Didn’t work. Even blonde eyebrow pencils didn’t seem to work. They just looked darker. So I left them alone.

Back to the wigs. I have never styled, let alone worn a wig before. This was incredibly stressful. And I am glad I received guidance from my dear friend Simplyalexei. She showed me how to make the braids and she showed me how to style a wig by styling the braids of my Lexa wig for me. I watched closely how she did it. And then she told me how to set curls in the wig. What products to use. Everything. And then with that knowledge I went home feeling very much relieved.

I set a day of my time away for each wig. And Cinderella only took a couple of hours. I am a slow hair curler. Especially when it comes to putting hair in rollers. And this wig has twice as much hair as I do. That took an hour alone. Then came time to boil the water and set up an ice bath. The water was hot, but not a roiling boil. I made sure it wasn’t hot enough to melt the wig (the website will let you know how high of a heat you can use, if there is none suggested than you need to ask the company), just hot enough to heat the curls.

Grab your wig and dunk it into the hot water, be sure to be quick about it. About 5 seconds max. And then soak it in the cold water. For a minute or two. Until the hair curlers are cooled. Some of my curls unraveled in the quick motions, so I just raveled them back up and continued in the hopes that they will hold a curl. I let mine dry in a towel to get the excess water out of the wig. And then I let it sit with a dowel on the wig head until all curls were dry. I think I waited a solid 3 days before I messed with it just to make sure everything was fine.

After the curls were released I braided the two rope braids. One on either side.

I added some sticky hair gems to the wig. I couldn’t find more gems locally to put in the hair. Nor did I have enough time to add them with eyelash glue. Which I will for the next one. Thanks to my friend for letting me have the rest of the hair gems she didn’t use for her Fairy Godmother wig. She really was my Fairy Godmother.

Glass Slippers

Onto the shoes. I purchased two pairs of shoes. One shorter and one with the perfect heel. The perfect heel came last because I couldn’t find what I wanted anywhere. They were either sold out or not available in my size. It took me two months to find the perfect shoe. And it isn’t even the best. But I am happy with the silhouette of it. Since I didn’t use the short pair I won’t go into detail on how I made that one, but here are in progress shots.

The white pair, started out as a shoe with embroidered flowers and chains and beads on it. I could have left those on and just gem around the embellishments, but I decided I wanted the whole shoe to look crystalline. Like glass. I tore off everything from the shoe, even some of the fake leather bits came off. I have about 10,300 gems. All ab glass, from a seller on etsy, BlingeeThingee (, all varying sizes between ss4-ss30. Make sure to also purchase the wax pencil. It makes picking up gemstones so much easier. Thus it only took me a solid like 10-12 hours a shoe. This isn’t a fast process. But be careful, the wax pencil is fragile. {This isn’t a sponsorship or an affiliate link. I do not receive any monetary value if you purchase from her. She has reasonably priced gems that are great quality and with great discounts. All the gems for Cinderella came from her shop.}

To get started, you will need syringes for the glue for easy application with extra tips, E6000 glue, good ventilation, the gems in varying sizes, the shoes, the wax pencil, and a zillion hours. Not really, but you need a couple days set aside for this project. Don’t use the glue if you are underage, it is toxic, get a parent to do it for you. I used about 3-5 bottles of glue. Some were old and didn’t work properly and none of them were full.  I chose to start outlining the shoe first, then fill in the heel. (If the heel is shiny you need to sand it first so the stones and glue have something to stick to.

I squeezed some glue onto the heel with the larger tip of the syringes. I made sure to spread it out with the syringe and not lump it into one spot. Then I proceeded to pick up gemstones of all sizes and placed them on the shoe in one cluster and spread out from there. When I got near the edges of the heel I made sure to place varying stones along the edge of the shoes heel. This will give a solid straight outline for the gems to be inside of. Then make sure to fill in all the gaps of the heel so there are no visible spaces. With a white or tan shoe this is better. Black or any other dark shoe will be very visible if there are the slightest of space between gems.

Then outline the top and bottom of the shoes with all the same gemstone sizes. You don’t need varying sizes. We want the top and bottom to be the same. Start at the back of the shoe and move inwards until you get to the inner mid foot, next you will want to go all the way around the outside of the shoe. The only part you want the seam line to connect is on the inside of the shoe. That way it isn’t as noticeable, even if there is just the slightest variation in the pattern. It shouldn’t be noticeable at all. The stones should line up.

With the gemstones covering the whole shoe, you can now work on the butterfly. Now, for myself I couldn’t find the perfect butterfly. Nothing would work There was either too much bling, or not enough. Not the right color. It wasn’t until I was in Philadelphia that I found a butterfly pack that would work. Wrong color. Not enough gems. But that wasn’t anything a little paint or liquid leaf couldn’t fix. The other issue was that the butterfly didn’t have bent wings. Which is what I wanted on my butterflies. So I bent the wings myself. Painted the wings. Then added gems to said wings. As well as the center body. All that remained was gluing them onto the shoe. I most definitely recommend E6000 for this part for added strength.


Thus your shoe is done and your costume is complete. I do not have before the con pictures of the shoes. And since the con has passed some gems have fallen off, maybe 5-10 total, and one butterfly wing snapped right off. Hopefully nothing that can’t be fixed with a bit of glue. I was getting up from the ground when the gems fell off and I clinked the toe against a concrete step as well. (The shoes have since been repaired. Yay for extra gems. And the butterfly wing was glued back together.)

For an in motion video of the shoes be sure to check out my Instagram. They really are something I am proud of.

Petticoat Adjustments

Onto the petticoat adjustments. When I tried on the petticoat with the skirts on top they just dragged and trapped my legs. The skirts and petticoats were too heavy. Or maybe it was the drag of the carpet I was on. I didn’t have a chance to take it somewhere else before the con. So…the only option that popped into my head was to cut large godets out of the waterfall petticoat. I was very sad and upset about destroying it. But here is what I knew I had to do.

And in order to do that I had to set it on the ground. It was so heavy and huge it kept falling onto the floor off of my table.

And I also ended up cutting this off of the underskirt.

Here are pictures of the underskirt with the multicolored chiffon layer on.

Also the new waistband after this top layer was removed.

I ended up unpicking the waistband at that mishap there. It bugged me and needed to be fixed.

Now if you have any questions at all about this post them in the comments below. When I have time I will answer them. This was most definitely an experience to make. I loved every bit of it. And the con was great, got to meet exciting new people, compete in a contest. Fun was had. Thank you for taking the time to read this long series. Also long overdue. I am sorry about that. I should be back with regular updates now that the move is over, still a bit of unpacking. But I should be back. I’ve missed this. Thank you. I still need to get photos done for Cinderella. Those shall be posted in a week or two.

Cinderella Live Action 2015…You Shall Go To The Ball… Part Six: Bodice

The trickiest piece on this entire gown is the bodice. I remade it four times because the others just didn’t work out to my tastes. Neither did the final one, but I was down to the last minute.

I don’t know why this one is just so tricky. It’s my own bodice pattern. I drafted it myself and have used it in two other costumes. So it isn’t like the pattern doesn’t work. Albeit I have lost weight since then and now I need to redraft it. But still, that shouldn’t be too big of an issue.

The first one was the most perfect. I just made a slight error when putting it together and ended up with a complete and utter mess. A mess I will be able to fix. Hopefully. One day after the move when I have time to fiddle with it things will be alright. But that is after the ball, after the move, maybe before Padme, but unlikely.

The second bodice, was made with extra chiffon and organza on top, and organza likes to slip around as does chiffon. I should have stabilized the fabric. But it totally spaced my mind. I didn’t even get half way through this before I realized that it would not work and I gave up.

The third bodice, I ran out of interfacing and my local store was closed for the night. So I forged ahead without interfacing, hoping that using twill and a cotton for lining would act the same way. It doesn’t. The bodice was super rippled. Like beyond saving rippled. Although it fit, the ripples were not wanted

So I had no choice but to start a fourth time. This time I interfaced my satin like I should have done the first place. I am just weary of ironing seams on interfaced fabric, as well as cleaning interfaced fabrics. I just don’t feel like the interfacing is strong enough to handle that. Even though I know I am wrong. It just doesn’t feel secure after all that hard work.

I used the exact same pattern as before with all the other ones. But I shaved more off the waist. This was my last chance. At this point I purchased the McCall’s pattern. Had a stern talking with my pattern. Not that that helped or made me sound any less sane. But I let my pattern know that if it didn’t pull itself together I would have to use a commercial pattern. And I was not going to be happy if I had to do that.

That seemed to get it to work. I sewed a piece of twill tape down the center front bodice strength side so the stitching doesn’t show on the outer side. I proceeded to do that with the side seams as well. Then the strength was basted to the satin front and sewn up at the seams with right sides together. And due to the time left with this one, I didn’t have time to line the bodice like I would have liked to. Like the first one I did. Thus my boning channels are the seams just folded over and stitched. I didn’t have time to hand stitch the eyelets on this one as I had done with the others, so these are nickel eyelets that I have hammered in.

And let’s not forget about the piping I made for it, the first time I made piping. It was easier than I thought.

Here are all the supplies I used to make the bodice.

Now comes that frilly bertha collar. The one with all the butterflies. The butterflies came first. About two years ago I purchased an embroidery machine. The embroidery machine I bought came with a lovely little butterfly already installed on it. I will purchase more patterns for when I make the next one. That way there is more of a diversity in the mix.

Here are my old butterflies, the ones I was going to use. Before I discovered embroidered ones.

I let my machine make the butterflies as I patterned the bertha out. It is basically a giant stretched oval, with the long ends cut off to create a flat edge.

The bertha was cut out of first the crystal organza and then the chiffon. I cut two of each out. And sewed them together down the middle. Followed by gathering the edges getting sewn together right sides matching in half. Leave one edge open to pull it through. And then I ladder stitched the opening shut so you wouldn’t see the stitches on the side. I ruched the seam at the center front to create that little indent at the bust where a butterfly will sit. Gathered the sewn up long edge down for the bertha to sit off the shoulder. The two end pieces are pleated where they will connect in the back.

The bertha was then sewn on at the center front, the center back at both points letting one come up over the other edge to hide the connecting pieces, as well as at the shoulder straps, the side front, and lastly at the side back. Then butterflies were placed with the prettiest ones at the shoulders and the center front and back. Each one hand tacked down with a few strands of thread. The other butterflies were placed less strategically than these points. They were just placed in areas that worked for them. There are roughly 43 butterflies on this entire thing.

I just don’t know how to get rid of the ripples completely. I think part of my issue is that I am wearing a boned corset underneath and a boned bodice on top. The corset also needs to be redone because it is just a tad bit loose in the waist region now. The bust and hips are fine. Just the waist is a bit big. That and I may need more pieces instead of just 7 total. Who knows? If you do please feel free to let me know. I am always looking to expand my knowledge.

Cinderella Live Action 2015…You Shall Go To The Ball… Part Five: Underskirt & Overskirt

Now we are getting to the pieces we will actually see. I mean this will be glimpsed through the outer layer. And when I spin you will be able to see the petticoat layers at the bottom. This layer was supposed to be three layers. The final petticoat layer that will drape the others nicely on top of the other petticoats. The opalescent mirror Lamé, will be the middle layer. The final layer on this will be multicolored chiffon sections. I bought quite a few different purples and blues of chiffon. Unfortunately due to the weight that layer is, it had to be cut off. Which is alright. I’ll save it for something else. So I won’t be going into details of the top layer of the underskirt.

Starting with the base layer, the final mini petticoat, I drafted a regular skirt pattern on pattern paper, two different patterns to be more specific. One for the front and one for the back. To help with the weight of the entire gown at this point I only cut two of the front and three of the back. I made this layer end at the last of the ruffles from the previous layer.

This layer then has a ruffle layer attached to it at the bottom. Also hemmed with fishing line. A little hint, the ruffle layer needs to be of the same material as the skirt portion as this will be shown through all the skirts. I need to redo this layer later as a result.

The over layer for this is made with the opalescent mirror Lamé. This fabric only comes so wide. I believe it is about 40 inches wide. Which isn’t very big when it comes to making ball gowns. When you need a really big skirt with less seams. To help this I believe I cut out 3 panels for the front and five for the back. I don’t want  a seam down the center back or the center front. I also had to make a new overskirt pattern for this layer as the pattern I had ended at the ruffle layer and this piece needs to go to the floor and then some. I want the train in the back like she does for some of the scenes in the movie.

Once again the back piece is longer than the front. This will also be hemmed with fishing line. But for this layer I did not tightly wrap the line around a small dowel to give it a tighter curl. Just leave it on the spool it comes with.

Below is an image of my rolled hem. Not great, but there is a learning curve. And it behaves differently with different fabrics.


The final layer, the blue one, is another pattern. An inch longer than the previous one. And this layer was all sewn together before I hand applied the gemstones. I purchased what seemed to be correct sizes for the gown, ss12 and ss16. I should have gone ss8 and ss10. They were huge. I had about 3000 gems applied to the skirt. It was a long process, about 8 hours total. The waistband wasn’t finished and neither was the hem. As I don’t hem things until after I get the waistband on the skirts. That way I know exactly where I need to hem the skirt.

To apply the gems, I purchased syringes for E6000 glue. You can reuse them a couple times before they are unusable. They came with an assortment of needle head sizes. You will also need some butcher paper (for packing meat, not the kind you find in schools) or wax paper. Something the glue won’t stick too. Now that won’t mean that the glue won’t stick to the paper if you let it dry completely there. This just stops the glue from sticking with the paper before you move it for the final drying process. You need to lift the top section from the paper when you get started on the bottom. And once you finish the whole sheet you will have to lift it from the paper completely.

But let us back track a bit. I took my wax paper, taped three long segments together to form one giant rectangle. I then traced out my skirt pattern onto this piece and drew lines out from the top going straight down. About an inch apart at the top and getting wider at the bottom. Then I drew horizontal ovals following the waistband line all the way to the bottom. A friend mentioned to me that if I put a stone on each square like I planned then all the stones would line up right next to each other, which I didn’t want. I then proceeded to put a stone in each square sporadically so as to make sure that it wasn’t all even. It’s supposed to be an organized chaos.

Now I will go back and put smaller stones on once I move. And then we will see how well it does. I am hoping to not remove the waistband, but I am sure I will have to.

When all your stones are placed attach a waistband. After the waistband is finished you can now hem your skirt.

I’m sorry if this tends to jump around a bit. A lot. It was one of the easier pieces to make of this project as there are no excess ruffles. The most time consuming thing was placing the stones and the hardest part was hemming it all. I don’t like hemming chiffon.

It is easier if you hem with fishing line and then remove the fishing line at the end. Just because chiffon is hard to keep hold of due to the shiftiness of it. Although I do recommend the narrow hem foot. That foot saved this entire project from ruin as the chiffon and organza was so fragile the overlocked threads pulled out if you tugged just a tad bit too hard.

If you have any questions don’t be afraid to ask. I do plan to redo this in the future, when I have more skill and lighter supplies, but for right now I am content. Thank you for taking the time to read this and have a good day.

Cinderella Live Action 2015…You Shall Go To The Ball… Part Four: Waterfall Petticoat

This one will probably be just as long as its predecessor. But as you can image this is just as big of a beastie if not bigger than the other. But that’s alright. Considering this is Cinderella we are talking about. She is supposed to be the belle of the ball. And rightly so.

As you can tell by now after having finished this piece I needed to hype myself up about this. Not because of how it looks, it’s positively gorgeous so far, but because of the sheer amount of time I have spent on this one costume. Longer than any other gown. I have reached the one-month one-week mark and I have just now finished the petticoats. And I have 20 days to go before con. With two other costumes that need to be made. This is going to be a long month. But the only thing left of this piece is the blog post, which is what I am getting at now.

This one petticoat ate more fabric than I thought possible. I have used roughly 170-ish yards total by the end of this. Hell, the top layer bottom tier had a little over 200 yards of strips in it. Which took me 4 hours, 4 minutes, and 16 seconds to hem. I know. I created a stopwatch of the process. That was just the outer layer bottom hem. I had to go to the store three separate times and to another town the last two because I purchased all the organza available in white, blue, purple, green, and even pink in my local store. It was outrageous. And time consuming. But enough of that, onto what you are actually here about. The process.

The gown started out with the drafting process as always. And if you have seen my Yvaine posts this process will look very similar to the making of that gown. (Yvaine will be the next set of posts, I figured by now that series would be up, but I was delayed in posting due to this ball gown.) I started out with six measuring tapes total. Then attached one at each of the following: center back, side, center front, side front, and two between center back and side. Place them with the 0 at the ground. Just touching the ground. The high number should be at the waist. From here you want to see how far up the petticoat you want the ruffles to start. I went with the third hoop down from the top. With that in mind the ruffle section would have to be 40 inches in length.

For this patterning I grabbed see through plastic. When you purchase whole bolts of fabric at Joanns they give you a large plastic bag for it. At this time and type of process you will need to be able to see through it. Which fabric just does not let you do. Using the bag with the bottom cut off and one side cut open I pinned it to the waist from the top, smoothed out the bottom edge as best as I could, and made markings on each tape at 40. This allows me to connect the lines later on when I am putting the pattern to paper.

This shows the exact same thing. But with an organza remnant instead of the plastic.

Then transfer the markings once you cut out to the pattern paper and mark out seam allowances. Cut this out of the sturdy organza. I don’t know the exact name for it. Bought it at an estate kind of sale. Where all the fabric bolts were 5 dollars apiece. I bought a lot that day. This fabric looks like a cross between organza and chiffon. The look of chiffon, but feel of organza. It came with 22 yards on the bolt. After they were sewn together, one edge was sewn as a French seam, while the other was sewn under. All edges were overlocked, just to stop the edges from fraying.

The following step involves some very easy math. You need to decide on how long you want to make the lower ruffle edge to be. From here just minus that from number you decided on before. My lower edge will be 11 inches, technically twelve inches with a seam allowances.  So the middle tier will have to be 29 inches, or 30 inches with seam allowances. I cut out enough to make two layers of this one. The process for this is fairy repetitive. And it does get a little boring. But the outcome is worth it.

You are going to want to put on a good show, preferably a streaming show, one where you don’t have to keep removing the disks and putting new ones in. This is going to be a very long process. And it spanned days.

These are the fabrics I had on hand for this petticoat,  not pictured are the extra fabric I have purchased. All of these are organza or various content and they all have more than one piece.

Start with the 29 inch sections, there is no real math to this process, there will be if you hand gather the ruffles. But with the ruffle foot I don’t know how much fabric it will use for each section. So I make sure to cut off what I think will be enough of the organza. Sometimes it isn’t enough and I will need to cut more. Other times it is too much and I end up putting the spare bits in a bag labeled ruffles. These will be used at a later date on this project or another project. We shall see at the end. When each of these are sewn together you are going to want to overlock the edges. Then topstitch the seam down, I use a decorative topstitch because I find them pretty.

After they are stitched together overlock around all the edges. This will help stop the fraying. And when it frays it is a pain. This will save you in the long run but is a very time consuming process. Then you will need to pull out the ruffle foot. It should go by fairly quickly. But if your machine is anything like mine the center point of the needle is not in the center. Thus if the needle is on the thin side like you should be using for organza the needles will have a tendency to break. I went through a lot of needles to figure out the best way to do this. The best way being is a thicker needle. The thicker needle won’t shatter when it hits the metal. Also you need to make sure that the metal slide pulls back fast enough so the needle doesn’t get hung up on it. That will also break the needles. When this happens you just need to make a couple minor adjustments or you need to oil your foot. I do both. Don’t oil too much, if you do you need to wipe off some of the oil.

After the ruffles are finished for the tier, pin them to the elliptical tier that will be on the waistband. This was when I realized that I had enough ruffles at this width to make this layer two separate layers that attach to this top tier. And that became the new plan.

The next step is to cut out the lower tier at 12 inches in width. Follow the same method as before. And this will be pinned to the middle tier that was attached.

The second layer is the exact same as the previous layer. And it attaches the same way. Not much to say about this. Hem these layers before you attach the top one. I hemmed both layers with a narrow hem foot and fishing line.

The final layer for this petticoat will need a new top tier this one shorter than the others. This tier will create the butt fluff that we need for the elliptical gown. I want the layers to be 51 inches total. That means with the front being 49 inches, the front will need to be cut off short. This will be explained later on. Besides that top portion that we pattern out for this layer there will be three bottom tiers. The long one that goes from the waist to the knee. The one that goes from the knee to low calf. With the final one being low calf to ground.

The total inches are 51 from the top tier, tier two is 25 inches, tier three is 15 inches, tier four is 11 inches. The steps follow the exact same as before. Just keep overlocking the edges after you sew them together. Then use the ruffle foot, you can change the stitch length to lengthen the ruffles or condense the ruffles. My bottom tier on the top layer ended up being roughly 200 yards. And that was awful to hem. This layer also weighs the most.

I cut out the top tier first. Completely sewed that layer together with overlocking all the edges. And after that you can get started on the other layers. First with the middle. Cut out the 25 inch tier overlocking all layers. Sew them together if you need to. Mine was just long enough to make it all the way around the layer without having to buy more fabric. The other layers are a different story. I used the ruffle foot and then proceeded to ruffle the whole layer. This portion will have to be pinned all the way up and over the waistband. To get the front not to drag the ground with the difference of the layers. When you cut out the excess there will be a half moon shape that gets cut off. That is normal. Place the petticoat back onto the dress form while you work on the other bits. And then it was sewn to the top tier. As well as top stitched down once the edges were all laying down correctly. I did have to unpick bits here and there. But it still worked out.

The third tier will be 15 inches in width. This one is considerably longer than the previous. Also made with multiple colors. After ruffling this layer, it was then added to the previous layer. Sewn up. But not completely, as I ran out of organza and had to go back to the store. Once I purchased more I then followed the same steps. With enough sewn together I attached it the other section where I left off and continued to sew this down. Then this was overlocked to clean up the edge and topstitched to the previous tier.

The bottom layer, the one that is 11 inches which I cut out to 12 inches, is just about 200 if not more yards long. This layer I ran out of fabric for twice. Because you don’t expect the yardage to be taken up that quickly. I used the same steps as before but because of the fabric dwindling I just kept having to add more and more fabric to the bottom section. The hemming was done with an overlocker, and then redone with the narrow hem foot and my regular machine. I also used fishing line, this one not wrapped up and boiled like the previous sections. I just used the spool it came on and left that on the ground as it slowly was used up. I still have about 30 yards left on that one, but it will be saved for a later date. With this completed the final thing is the waistband. Which I repeated the exact same waistband as the previous post.

Ta da! Mega fluffiness. The weight is a little tugging with the other layers, but that shouldn’t be too much of an issue.

Especially that there are only two layers left, the underskirt and the overskirt. Those shouldn’t be too heavy. At least I hope not. I love this piece so much I wouldn’t want to cut it up to make it lighter.

If you have any questions don’t be afraid to ask. And sorry for the lengthy post.

Cinderella Live Action 2015…You Shall Go To The Ball… Part Three: Godet Petticoat

By now I know this sewing series will be a very labor intensive one. There is a reason for separating the petticoats into each of their own posts. The hardest one is the first. Although the first one doesn’t suck up as much fabric as the rest of them do.

Before I started this project I had no idea what a godet was. I only knew they required godets from the many blog pictures of people who have made this dress as well. A godet is a triangle like shape that will help you to create bulk towards the bottom while keeping the top fairly thin. Which for this silhouette of the gown is exactly what you want to have. There are three layers of godets on mine. It wasn’t exactly that easy to see in any of the pictures how many they made, So I went with three. One for the bottom, the middle, and the top. The longest godet is at the top with the shortest at the bottom. Very easy to make.

When you finish your crinoline you will need to create a base for the godets to be sewn to. I used a very sturdy organza. I do not know the content of the organza, but my guess would have to be polyester. To create the base, I draped some fabric on top of the crinoline and bustle pad. Traced out where I want the linings to go. And then cut. These markings were transferred to wrapping paper for the patterning process. I added seam allowances at all sides. Then I made extra room at the bottom for some extra fluff. This was so it wouldn’t stick to the cage. To let the cage have some breathing room and for twirling purposes.

The base layer is cut short so the first of the many ruffles to come can be added to the bottom of this. I don’t remember exact yardages. But I do know that for all the petticoats I think I purchased somewhere around a 190 yards total, I started with 130, but I kept running out. And at that point I couldn’t be picky with my colors, that’s why I have some pinks and very dark blues. The dark green was intentional in this petticoat. As the purpose is to make it look like a waterfall, there will be some dark colors.

After you sew the ruffles on this you want to hem it. Don’t wait until the end because you think it will be easier. It won’t. You will only be kicking yourself for not thinking of this sooner. I did a narrow hem on my overlocker, but I left in the stitch finger. The organza was so fragile that when I accidentally stepped on the hems it fell right out. So I went back to the drawing board. I bought a narrow hem foot from a local store and got to work hemming the overlocked edges. For this process I added in fishing line in the hem. It was recommended for me to use 100 pound weight, I opted to use the 60 pound weight as the price was a lot nicer than the alternative.

For the first set of godets, decide how you want the shape to be, wide or not as wide. I went a little on the wide side. Here is a picture.

I decided I wanted the bottom layer to have 13 godets total. I cut out thirteen of my cheapest organza. Cut the triangles out on the straight of the grain with the tip all the way to the center. Don’t cut them out on the bias as this will completely ruin them. They won’t lay quite right and they will stretch in the wrong direction. Then overlock all the edges to make sure they are sturdier followed by sewing each of the edges together to create a circle. Sew up about half way to connect them. Then pin this equally around the whole base on the petticoat. You will need to hand sew these down to secured them and then sew them on by the machine to make them extra firm.

With this complete you can get started on adding the ruffle layer to this edge. To do so you need a long rectangle piece, all edges overlocked, and gathered down. Buy a ruffler foot. This will save you. Trust me. You are going to want to have one of these when you start this project. As about sixty percent of this project entails making ruffles. And it will be very tedious. I am warning you now. But the end result will be well worth it. Trust me. For the ruffle edge make this layer a variety of colors. You want them to cascade and blend when you twirl. (Side tangent: In the movie her petticoat does have a lot of white in it. My other layers are mainly white blended in with colors. This layer is just to ensure that you use all the odd colors that don’t quite match now.)

Once again hem this layer with the fishing line.

The second layer of godets go up about half way. They are longer than the bottom layer, but not long enough that the ruffles get mixed in with the lower set.

The ruffles for this will start about 3 inches higher than the others. This layer also has 11 godets. All overlocked and sewn together like before. The reason for 11 is because I was going down in odds. I did this because the images don’t really show how many godets there are. Which is fine. I can make this work. Same thing with the ruffles on this layer. Just keep following the same process. And don’t forget to hem. This layer will have more ruffles than the last. And the ruffle foot will still feel like it’s a pain to use. Mine caused me some issues, a lot of issues. But in the end I am so very lucky that I have it.

The final layer of godets have nine total. These are quite long, but not as long as I should have made them.

The bottom ruffle I think measured to 15 inches. Which is the longest lower layer ever in my opinion. But it works out, so I’m not upset. This layer goes to the hips, or a little above the hips. They are longer and less wide, but still wide enough for some twirling.

After this layer is hemmed we are almost done. The final step is to make the waistband. Which is relatively easy. Not much to it. You just cut out a rectangle. To find the measurements that you need just use this problem, Waist+1 inch seam allowance+2 or 3 inches for the overlap= The rectangle you should cut out.

My waist is 32 inches. 32+1+3=36. So my rectangle is 37 inches long and 3.5 inches wide. Fold each edge inward by a half inch and stitch down. Then stitch with right sides together to your petticoat. The petticoat should stay in that 32 inches, if you want it to overlap slightly you can sew this to the 33-inch mark. It can make the leeway a bit nice considering you will have a chemise, bloomers, corset, and a crinoline on underneath this. So that extra inch may be a good thing to have. You can add a button or skirt hooks. I will avoid either and go with safety pins for now. I am going to wait until the corset is finished.

Thank you for reading. If you have any questions do not hesitate to ask. Until next time, bye.

Cinderella Live Action 2015…You Shall Go To The Ball… Part Two: Bloomers

This part was the only blog post I forgot to write about. They were going to be combined in a post with the chemise, but the chemise was never made due to lack of time. In the future when I come back to Cinderella I will make the chemise. And most likely remake the bodice. But enough of that, onto the Bloomers.

If you know me then you know I love bloomers and frills and ruffles. And I just knew that these bloomers had to be over the top. And not historically accurate. Maybe one day I will do the split drawers, but for now I am content with what I make.

So the bloomers only happened this way because of the fabric I found. I was scouring the remnants section of Joanns for some fabric to make gloves for another project when I came across two ½ yard lengths of the same lace in the bin. And they were just too pretty to leave behind even though I had no idea what to make with them. I bought them anyways. But being a half a yard the options were limited. Jump ahead a half year when I saw the promo pictures for Cinderella I knew that they would become the bloomers for her.

To begin I fray checked the bottom edge, which is just a straight line, and then cut across that line. Then I found an off white lace trim for them that was similar lengths to the edges of the fabric. Now since lace were just two half yard pieces I cut them in half. That left me with four half yards. I placed the two on top of each other. And cut out a curved line, shown below….

On both pieces. The back was a little wider, for the bum. I shaved off enough for a waistband, but I just went with ribbon instead later on. On the other edge I curved the top a bit inwards. Just enough to curve over the hip a little.

Next I sewed the front and the back legs at the side seam running down the hip, I left the right side pieces open about 6 inches at the top to allow me to get them on and off, this is where the opening of the waistband will go. This left two pieces sewn at the hip and here you can add the lace trim to the bottom. And add elastic to the calf part on the inside. I used a very thin elastic, ¼ inch wide.

Then I placed right sides together and sewed up both edges including the crotch and bum seams (as these are not historically accurate split drawers). The only other step is to attach them to a waistband. Any waistband method of your choice. I went with satin ribbon. I gathered the waist down to the length of the ribbon leaving an extra inch of overlap as to allow me to safety-pin the bloomers closed. Then the edge of the ribbon was turned inward to hide the inner seam.

Unfortunately, photos are limited of this piece. If you have any questions do not hesitate to leave a comment on here or on my Instagram or my Facebook. Thank you for taking the time to read this. And have a good day. The next posts are all completed, and I just have to get the photos off my camera and they will be posted weekly or bi-weekly. Sorry for the delay. I’ve decided to take on a last minute project for this weekend. So the next post will be up on Sunday. As the con I am going to is Saturday only.