Agent Carter Red Skirt

With Arctic Comic Con and all the mini events and meetups I had for various groups I am in I was unable to make Agent Carters SSR Uniform for the movie/meetup like I had planned. Now I would have if the twill suiting been strong enough to support the weight of the jacket, but it turns out I really do need wool for that. I have wool now and will begin working on that costume at some point this year. I hope. My plans are really tight right now with prep for Arctic Comic Con, as it is I don’t have the time for Padme and she will need to be moved for a later date. Her embroidery man. I love the detail work, I just needed more time than the two weeks I allotted myself. (I also have my #2018makenine/#2018maketwelve to finish at some point this year as well as my #sewtogetherforsummer dress that I have planned for June. And then after that is Ren Fair first two weekends in June as well as Taikai Con. Then Steamposium in August and SenshiCon in September, but SenshiCon is three days this year.

Sorry for running off on a tangent, just have a lot on my mind. Back to the costume at hand. Agent Carter. This isn’t a full on costume. It is loosely based on a couple of her outfits. It’s just the flowiness of a 1940’s skirt pattern that she wears in a couple scenes, but the red of a form fitted pencil skirt that she wears.


Blouse and flouncy neck tie if you can’t find a blouse with one attached.

Simplicity 8462

60” wide 2 and ½ yard of Red Stretch Crepe

20” wide 1 and 3/8 yard of fusible interfacing in the same quality of your fabric. (I am using stretch crepe so I will be using a stretch fusible interfacing.)

7” Zipper

Hook Closure

To start with I cut out the pattern at the largest size, which is 24. And then I folded down the size to size twenty. To get the length and waist to size twenty I cut notches out and folded the notches down until I had the correct size. That is how I keep the pattern sizes all there. It isn’t pretty but it is functional and if I have to make the pattern for someone else than I will still have the other sizes to use. You can trace with butcher paper, but I have yet to buy paper that thin. When I find some I will leave a link to it.

I want my skirt to only have one seam. And to do that we need to eliminate the side seam without the zipper. You can fold the edge of that side inward or you can guestimate the 5/8 inch off the side of the fabric you need to be. That’s what I did. I cut it. Made the zipper notch. And then went on YouTube to figure out how to do a lapped zipper. Videos are more informative than text to me. If you want the link to the video let me know in the comments below.

When all the pattern pieces were cut out and all markings were noted I stay-stitched the top of the skirt and let it hang overnight. The hanging of the skirt panel or panels will let the fabric stretch on the bias. Circle skirts are cut on the bias and have a tendency to stretch and warp over time on the bias leaving you with a wonky hem. The hanging overnight will lessen the warping you will get over time. If you are really worried you can let it hang a couple nights, but I have never had the need to do that and my other skirts are just fine.

Leave the stay-stitches in, they should be within the seam for the waistband that they won’t make a difference. I sewed up the edge to the notch. While my fabric was inside out I used a ruler to mark where the zipper was going to go. The left side needs to be turned in 5/8” while the right side needs to be turned in ½”.  The finished zipper will lap on the right side. The easiest way is to use a washable tape and place it on the sipper keeping it in place. Don’t use pins like I did. They will leave ripples and they will shift slightly. The tape will not. Tape the right side of the zipper to the underside of the right side and sew this very close to the sipper teeth but not catching the zipper teeth with the needle. Then fold over the left side and tape the zipper in place. You are going to want to sew of the left side of the zipper close to the teeth but not on the teeth. When you reach the end of the sipper tape you will need to turn the fabric and stitch the zipper bottom over. Once again not catching the teeth. I did at the bottom and snapped my needle. I then spent the next two minutes finding and rethreading my needle. I also had to unpick that edge as the zipper shifted ever so slightly at the bottom creating pulling in the fabric. I redid the last two inches of the stitches and there was still some slight pulling, but not enough for me to unpick and try a third time.

Now we make the waistband. I used a fusible stretch interfacing that I already have on hand.

I fused the waistband to it remarking notches. But I didn’t listen to the notches when installing the waistband. I just matched up the edges leaving a 5/8” on the left side and the extra inch and a half on the right side. I folded it under stitched it in place with a decorative stitch. I chose one that looks like a heartbeat.

I should have tried it on at this point and taken up the hem. But no. I double folded the hem encasing raw edges and made the decorative stitch in the hem as well to match that to the waistband. I added the hook and eye closure making sure to leave my stitches on the inside so you wouldn’t see them on the outside. It wasn’t until she was done that I decided to check the fit and length. It is a little snug. And the skirt is also quite long on me. It should come up at just below the knee, but it is mid-calf. So I cut off the hem I made and cut off an extra inch or two on top of that and this time folded inward once hemming that. The double folded hem was a little too bulky for my tastes and the hem won’t need it because this fabric doesn’t fray.

Will I remake this pattern? Probably at some point, it isn’t my favorite skirt, I favor skirts with petticoats, but I am definitely willing to branch out. Especially now that I know how to do a lapped zipper. I do enjoy how sleek the skirt is. And I just need to remember that I am not the right height for this skirt to hit below the knee. It’s fairly easy and quick to make, the only hiccup is the zipper, but I am hoping it will be much smoother when I get the washable tape.

It was very windy the day I photographed. But that was expected. The town I live in is always windy. Sorry for the delay in posting this project. I’ve been busy working on another costume. Prewriting a few posts. And I’m nearly done organizing my sewing room. I had a lot of stuff going on. I should be back at a regular schedule soon. Thank you.


2018 Make Nine – Simplicity 1080 View C

Let me start off with a very welcome hello everyone. This is the first in a series that will be featured this year. I am partaking in the #2018makenine tag. But I have kind out outdone myself and want to make one for every month. I know this is the end of March, but with the summer holiday coming up in a couple short months I should be able to get a lot done.

So this year was going to be 2018 Make Nine, that turned into 2018 Make Twelve, and is now currently Make Fourteen, but leading to fifteen. What can I say. I am a little ambitious this year. And I want to see how much I can get done with my current costume plans for the year. I am currently working on Agent Carter, and Padme. I am writing this up on Tuesday with hopes that it will be up by Sunday. At least that is the plan. (On a side note, this is spring themed which is just in time for the #alittlelawnparty.)

As with every pattern you read the envelope first, then pick your fabrics, and grab other necessities along the way. I didn’t follow any of the fabric recommendations/guidelines at all. I went with a rayon for the base skirt piece, rayon for the pockets, and a stretch crepe for the bodice/hip piece.

Let’s start off with materials first and foremost.

Dress Portion– 45-60” 1 and 7/8 yard (I can fit the large and should have probably gone with the medium, but I want larger waist ties.)

Contrast Bottom– 45-60” 1 yard

Contrast Pockets– 45-60” 3/8 yard

Notions—Thread, two packages of ½” single fold bias tape, one package of ¼” double fold bias tape. I believe the double fold bias tape has to match the pockets, and the single fold matches the main body of the dress. But will let you know farther on if this is not correct.

Interfacing—I interfaced the contrast bottom and the contrast pockets because I purchased rayon for them. If you get the materials listed on the packet you won’t need interfacing.

I purchased everything above and then got to cutting out the pieces. With every pattern I am going to use I will try and finagle the pieces to see if I can get the most out of my fabric while keeping grainlines intact.

So I cut out my pieces differently than they show on the pattern instructions. If you get sixty-inch-wide fabric you don’t need all what is listed on the back for the top of the tunic dress. The pattern envelope says to purchase 1 7/8 a yard for the dress top, if you go XL. I will be cutting out the large, but bought enough for the XL because I want extra wide waist bands. I think I only used a yard or a yard and a quarter at most. Fold your fabric in half, the selvages touching at the center on the folded edge. Cut out the least wide piece first. And then fold over the other edge keeping level with the grainline until you have enough room to cut out the back piece. If you need an image on how to do this let me know in the comments below and I will remake this with more images. (I already want to make another one. Out of the medium this time.) Even at the large size I was able to cut this out of just that little bit of fabric. I like to save as much fabric as possible for other purposes. I’ll probably make a skirt out of the rest.

After I cut out the bottom dress piece and the pockets I interfaced them with a fusible stretch knit interfacing. I don’t know that they still carry the exact one, but they carry something similar at joanns to what I used. Now with all your pieces cut, interfaced, and ready to sew you can begin the assembly process. I briefly glanced at the directions again and then decided I would just make it how I think is the easiest way.

What I do is pin all the pieces that can be sewn in stages. I folded the waistband ties over and pinned the edges down. Pinned the pocket band to the top of the pocket with the pleat in the pocket in place. Pinned the contrast bottom portion to the dress piece. Matching notches.

Then I took all of this to the sewing machine and stitched up the edges. All edges were then pinked with my pinking shears and some were zigzagged over. The ones with rayon that won’t be covered with a seam were zigzagged.

Afterwards I placed bias tape on the pocket band with the loose edge. Turned the waistband inside out and pinned those. Back to the sewing machine we go to sew down the seam on the dress. As well as the bias tape on the pocket band and the waistband straps were topstitched. The pockets were then bias taped around all the edges and attached to the dress at the front where the pattern indicates. Attach the waistbands at your natural waist, do not follow the pattern for this. Peoples waists are at different heights. I placed the shoulder seams at my shoulders and then pinned the waistband tie on one side then matching it to the other side.

All that is left is to sew up the side seams an inch above the notches to the bottom of the dress. Pink the seams and sew them down for a more finished look. Then the arms and the neckline are all turned inward and sewn down. I omitted the bias tape for the neckline and arm holes as well as the part where you attach the contrast to the dress. With the interfacing I didn’t think the seams needed the bias binding to be finished. Especially with pinking and zigzagging the edges. And since I used a stretch crepe for the top portion the neckline didn’t need to be stabilized with the bias tape. Hem the dress to the desired length.

After thoughts—Okay. This is a fairly easy piece to sew. It took me about three hours to sew everything and an hour to cut and interface the rest of it. It is fairly inexpensive dependent on fabric costs. I believe everything cost me around 30-35$ total. Including the bias tape that I didn’t use. That doesn’t include the interfacing as I already have most of it and only needed to purchase another yard to finish the rest.

I did leave out the bust darts where the waistband is supposed to attach. I made my ties extra wide and felt that they were not necessary.  Although when I redo this I will most definitely be adding those. But I still will not be adding the waist ties at the bust darts. I prefer them at the sides. And the width of them are fairly nice. But with the next one I make I want to make them smaller to see how they look.

When I make the tunic for this I will update this post to add that information to it. Onto the next challenge, #alittlelawnparty.

Cinderella Live Action 2015…You Shall Go To The Ball…Pictures in the Snow

It has been roughly two weeks since my last post. I have had these pictures done for a while now. Just haven’t had the time to go through them. Not the kind of time I would have liked anyways. I wrapped up a commission for someone and life just seemed to get in the way. I also managed to make a few baby outfits and none of my make nine for the year. One is all set and ready to sew, just haven’t had the time to sew it.

But enough of the holdup. This post isn’t about my lack of sewing for the year or my lack of being productive. And I was productive in the organizing phase, soon to be even more organized once I get a system down. No, this post isn’t about any of that. This post is about the final pictures for Cinderella. At least the final for now. I need to take them in the summer with some old buildings somewhere, or new stone buildings. But without further words, here they are. The lovely pictures were taken by my sister. She was kind enough to trudge through the snow in the freezing cold with me to get these shots. We were out there for almost a couple of hours. And while I had on all the layers of the petticoats to protect me from the cold, she did not. And I just love these pictures.

Cinderella Winter 004Cinderella Winter 062Cinderella Winter 060Cinderella Winter 006Cinderella Winter 064Cinderella Winter 078

Cinderella Live Action 2015…You Shall Go To The Ball… Part Seven: Wig & Shoes (Petticoat Adjustments)

This one shall be an easy post. At least in the grand scheme of things. Let’s talk about the part that I thought would be the most challenging out of it all. And how wrong I was in saying it was impossible.

The wig, having never styled a wig before it, was a daunting task. I purchased a wig online from Wig Is Fashion. Great store for wigs, reasonably priced, fast shipping. Great quality. I purchased two lace front wigs. One for Cinderella and another for Commander Lexa. The colors I received were not what was pictured. The Lexa wig isn’t as dark as it appears on the website, so I was unable to use that for the character. And the Cinderella wig was not my shade of blonde. The color did match up really well with the photo though. But I have deep dark brown almost black hair, same with my eyebrows, which I tried very hard to lighten them. Didn’t work. Even blonde eyebrow pencils didn’t seem to work. They just looked darker. So I left them alone.

Back to the wigs. I have never styled, let alone worn a wig before. This was incredibly stressful. And I am glad I received guidance from my dear friend Simplyalexei. She showed me how to make the braids and she showed me how to style a wig by styling the braids of my Lexa wig for me. I watched closely how she did it. And then she told me how to set curls in the wig. What products to use. Everything. And then with that knowledge I went home feeling very much relieved.

I set a day of my time away for each wig. And Cinderella only took a couple of hours. I am a slow hair curler. Especially when it comes to putting hair in rollers. And this wig has twice as much hair as I do. That took an hour alone. Then came time to boil the water and set up an ice bath. The water was hot, but not a roiling boil. I made sure it wasn’t hot enough to melt the wig (the website will let you know how high of a heat you can use, if there is none suggested than you need to ask the company), just hot enough to heat the curls.

Grab your wig and dunk it into the hot water, be sure to be quick about it. About 5 seconds max. And then soak it in the cold water. For a minute or two. Until the hair curlers are cooled. Some of my curls unraveled in the quick motions, so I just raveled them back up and continued in the hopes that they will hold a curl. I let mine dry in a towel to get the excess water out of the wig. And then I let it sit with a dowel on the wig head until all curls were dry. I think I waited a solid 3 days before I messed with it just to make sure everything was fine.

After the curls were released I braided the two rope braids. One on either side.

I added some sticky hair gems to the wig. I couldn’t find more gems locally to put in the hair. Nor did I have enough time to add them with eyelash glue. Which I will for the next one. Thanks to my friend for letting me have the rest of the hair gems she didn’t use for her Fairy Godmother wig. She really was my Fairy Godmother.

Glass Slippers

Onto the shoes. I purchased two pairs of shoes. One shorter and one with the perfect heel. The perfect heel came last because I couldn’t find what I wanted anywhere. They were either sold out or not available in my size. It took me two months to find the perfect shoe. And it isn’t even the best. But I am happy with the silhouette of it. Since I didn’t use the short pair I won’t go into detail on how I made that one, but here are in progress shots.

The white pair, started out as a shoe with embroidered flowers and chains and beads on it. I could have left those on and just gem around the embellishments, but I decided I wanted the whole shoe to look crystalline. Like glass. I tore off everything from the shoe, even some of the fake leather bits came off. I have about 10,300 gems. All ab glass, from a seller on etsy, BlingeeThingee (, all varying sizes between ss4-ss30. Make sure to also purchase the wax pencil. It makes picking up gemstones so much easier. Thus it only took me a solid like 10-12 hours a shoe. This isn’t a fast process. But be careful, the wax pencil is fragile. {This isn’t a sponsorship or an affiliate link. I do not receive any monetary value if you purchase from her. She has reasonably priced gems that are great quality and with great discounts. All the gems for Cinderella came from her shop.}

To get started, you will need syringes for the glue for easy application with extra tips, E6000 glue, good ventilation, the gems in varying sizes, the shoes, the wax pencil, and a zillion hours. Not really, but you need a couple days set aside for this project. Don’t use the glue if you are underage, it is toxic, get a parent to do it for you. I used about 3-5 bottles of glue. Some were old and didn’t work properly and none of them were full.  I chose to start outlining the shoe first, then fill in the heel. (If the heel is shiny you need to sand it first so the stones and glue have something to stick to.

I squeezed some glue onto the heel with the larger tip of the syringes. I made sure to spread it out with the syringe and not lump it into one spot. Then I proceeded to pick up gemstones of all sizes and placed them on the shoe in one cluster and spread out from there. When I got near the edges of the heel I made sure to place varying stones along the edge of the shoes heel. This will give a solid straight outline for the gems to be inside of. Then make sure to fill in all the gaps of the heel so there are no visible spaces. With a white or tan shoe this is better. Black or any other dark shoe will be very visible if there are the slightest of space between gems.

Then outline the top and bottom of the shoes with all the same gemstone sizes. You don’t need varying sizes. We want the top and bottom to be the same. Start at the back of the shoe and move inwards until you get to the inner mid foot, next you will want to go all the way around the outside of the shoe. The only part you want the seam line to connect is on the inside of the shoe. That way it isn’t as noticeable, even if there is just the slightest variation in the pattern. It shouldn’t be noticeable at all. The stones should line up.

With the gemstones covering the whole shoe, you can now work on the butterfly. Now, for myself I couldn’t find the perfect butterfly. Nothing would work There was either too much bling, or not enough. Not the right color. It wasn’t until I was in Philadelphia that I found a butterfly pack that would work. Wrong color. Not enough gems. But that wasn’t anything a little paint or liquid leaf couldn’t fix. The other issue was that the butterfly didn’t have bent wings. Which is what I wanted on my butterflies. So I bent the wings myself. Painted the wings. Then added gems to said wings. As well as the center body. All that remained was gluing them onto the shoe. I most definitely recommend E6000 for this part for added strength.


Thus your shoe is done and your costume is complete. I do not have before the con pictures of the shoes. And since the con has passed some gems have fallen off, maybe 5-10 total, and one butterfly wing snapped right off. Hopefully nothing that can’t be fixed with a bit of glue. I was getting up from the ground when the gems fell off and I clinked the toe against a concrete step as well. (The shoes have since been repaired. Yay for extra gems. And the butterfly wing was glued back together.)

For an in motion video of the shoes be sure to check out my Instagram. They really are something I am proud of.

Petticoat Adjustments

Onto the petticoat adjustments. When I tried on the petticoat with the skirts on top they just dragged and trapped my legs. The skirts and petticoats were too heavy. Or maybe it was the drag of the carpet I was on. I didn’t have a chance to take it somewhere else before the con. So…the only option that popped into my head was to cut large godets out of the waterfall petticoat. I was very sad and upset about destroying it. But here is what I knew I had to do.

And in order to do that I had to set it on the ground. It was so heavy and huge it kept falling onto the floor off of my table.

And I also ended up cutting this off of the underskirt.

Here are pictures of the underskirt with the multicolored chiffon layer on.

Also the new waistband after this top layer was removed.

I ended up unpicking the waistband at that mishap there. It bugged me and needed to be fixed.

Now if you have any questions at all about this post them in the comments below. When I have time I will answer them. This was most definitely an experience to make. I loved every bit of it. And the con was great, got to meet exciting new people, compete in a contest. Fun was had. Thank you for taking the time to read this long series. Also long overdue. I am sorry about that. I should be back with regular updates now that the move is over, still a bit of unpacking. But I should be back. I’ve missed this. Thank you. I still need to get photos done for Cinderella. Those shall be posted in a week or two.

Cinderella Live Action 2015…You Shall Go To The Ball… Part Six: Bodice

The trickiest piece on this entire gown is the bodice. I remade it four times because the others just didn’t work out to my tastes. Neither did the final one, but I was down to the last minute.

I don’t know why this one is just so tricky. It’s my own bodice pattern. I drafted it myself and have used it in two other costumes. So it isn’t like the pattern doesn’t work. Albeit I have lost weight since then and now I need to redraft it. But still, that shouldn’t be too big of an issue.

The first one was the most perfect. I just made a slight error when putting it together and ended up with a complete and utter mess. A mess I will be able to fix. Hopefully. One day after the move when I have time to fiddle with it things will be alright. But that is after the ball, after the move, maybe before Padme, but unlikely.

The second bodice, was made with extra chiffon and organza on top, and organza likes to slip around as does chiffon. I should have stabilized the fabric. But it totally spaced my mind. I didn’t even get half way through this before I realized that it would not work and I gave up.

The third bodice, I ran out of interfacing and my local store was closed for the night. So I forged ahead without interfacing, hoping that using twill and a cotton for lining would act the same way. It doesn’t. The bodice was super rippled. Like beyond saving rippled. Although it fit, the ripples were not wanted

So I had no choice but to start a fourth time. This time I interfaced my satin like I should have done the first place. I am just weary of ironing seams on interfaced fabric, as well as cleaning interfaced fabrics. I just don’t feel like the interfacing is strong enough to handle that. Even though I know I am wrong. It just doesn’t feel secure after all that hard work.

I used the exact same pattern as before with all the other ones. But I shaved more off the waist. This was my last chance. At this point I purchased the McCall’s pattern. Had a stern talking with my pattern. Not that that helped or made me sound any less sane. But I let my pattern know that if it didn’t pull itself together I would have to use a commercial pattern. And I was not going to be happy if I had to do that.

That seemed to get it to work. I sewed a piece of twill tape down the center front bodice strength side so the stitching doesn’t show on the outer side. I proceeded to do that with the side seams as well. Then the strength was basted to the satin front and sewn up at the seams with right sides together. And due to the time left with this one, I didn’t have time to line the bodice like I would have liked to. Like the first one I did. Thus my boning channels are the seams just folded over and stitched. I didn’t have time to hand stitch the eyelets on this one as I had done with the others, so these are nickel eyelets that I have hammered in.

And let’s not forget about the piping I made for it, the first time I made piping. It was easier than I thought.

Here are all the supplies I used to make the bodice.

Now comes that frilly bertha collar. The one with all the butterflies. The butterflies came first. About two years ago I purchased an embroidery machine. The embroidery machine I bought came with a lovely little butterfly already installed on it. I will purchase more patterns for when I make the next one. That way there is more of a diversity in the mix.

Here are my old butterflies, the ones I was going to use. Before I discovered embroidered ones.

I let my machine make the butterflies as I patterned the bertha out. It is basically a giant stretched oval, with the long ends cut off to create a flat edge.

The bertha was cut out of first the crystal organza and then the chiffon. I cut two of each out. And sewed them together down the middle. Followed by gathering the edges getting sewn together right sides matching in half. Leave one edge open to pull it through. And then I ladder stitched the opening shut so you wouldn’t see the stitches on the side. I ruched the seam at the center front to create that little indent at the bust where a butterfly will sit. Gathered the sewn up long edge down for the bertha to sit off the shoulder. The two end pieces are pleated where they will connect in the back.

The bertha was then sewn on at the center front, the center back at both points letting one come up over the other edge to hide the connecting pieces, as well as at the shoulder straps, the side front, and lastly at the side back. Then butterflies were placed with the prettiest ones at the shoulders and the center front and back. Each one hand tacked down with a few strands of thread. The other butterflies were placed less strategically than these points. They were just placed in areas that worked for them. There are roughly 43 butterflies on this entire thing.

I just don’t know how to get rid of the ripples completely. I think part of my issue is that I am wearing a boned corset underneath and a boned bodice on top. The corset also needs to be redone because it is just a tad bit loose in the waist region now. The bust and hips are fine. Just the waist is a bit big. That and I may need more pieces instead of just 7 total. Who knows? If you do please feel free to let me know. I am always looking to expand my knowledge.

Cinderella Live Action 2015…You Shall Go To The Ball… Part Five: Underskirt & Overskirt

Now we are getting to the pieces we will actually see. I mean this will be glimpsed through the outer layer. And when I spin you will be able to see the petticoat layers at the bottom. This layer was supposed to be three layers. The final petticoat layer that will drape the others nicely on top of the other petticoats. The opalescent mirror Lamé, will be the middle layer. The final layer on this will be multicolored chiffon sections. I bought quite a few different purples and blues of chiffon. Unfortunately due to the weight that layer is, it had to be cut off. Which is alright. I’ll save it for something else. So I won’t be going into details of the top layer of the underskirt.

Starting with the base layer, the final mini petticoat, I drafted a regular skirt pattern on pattern paper, two different patterns to be more specific. One for the front and one for the back. To help with the weight of the entire gown at this point I only cut two of the front and three of the back. I made this layer end at the last of the ruffles from the previous layer.

This layer then has a ruffle layer attached to it at the bottom. Also hemmed with fishing line. A little hint, the ruffle layer needs to be of the same material as the skirt portion as this will be shown through all the skirts. I need to redo this layer later as a result.

The over layer for this is made with the opalescent mirror Lamé. This fabric only comes so wide. I believe it is about 40 inches wide. Which isn’t very big when it comes to making ball gowns. When you need a really big skirt with less seams. To help this I believe I cut out 3 panels for the front and five for the back. I don’t want  a seam down the center back or the center front. I also had to make a new overskirt pattern for this layer as the pattern I had ended at the ruffle layer and this piece needs to go to the floor and then some. I want the train in the back like she does for some of the scenes in the movie.

Once again the back piece is longer than the front. This will also be hemmed with fishing line. But for this layer I did not tightly wrap the line around a small dowel to give it a tighter curl. Just leave it on the spool it comes with.

Below is an image of my rolled hem. Not great, but there is a learning curve. And it behaves differently with different fabrics.


The final layer, the blue one, is another pattern. An inch longer than the previous one. And this layer was all sewn together before I hand applied the gemstones. I purchased what seemed to be correct sizes for the gown, ss12 and ss16. I should have gone ss8 and ss10. They were huge. I had about 3000 gems applied to the skirt. It was a long process, about 8 hours total. The waistband wasn’t finished and neither was the hem. As I don’t hem things until after I get the waistband on the skirts. That way I know exactly where I need to hem the skirt.

To apply the gems, I purchased syringes for E6000 glue. You can reuse them a couple times before they are unusable. They came with an assortment of needle head sizes. You will also need some butcher paper (for packing meat, not the kind you find in schools) or wax paper. Something the glue won’t stick too. Now that won’t mean that the glue won’t stick to the paper if you let it dry completely there. This just stops the glue from sticking with the paper before you move it for the final drying process. You need to lift the top section from the paper when you get started on the bottom. And once you finish the whole sheet you will have to lift it from the paper completely.

But let us back track a bit. I took my wax paper, taped three long segments together to form one giant rectangle. I then traced out my skirt pattern onto this piece and drew lines out from the top going straight down. About an inch apart at the top and getting wider at the bottom. Then I drew horizontal ovals following the waistband line all the way to the bottom. A friend mentioned to me that if I put a stone on each square like I planned then all the stones would line up right next to each other, which I didn’t want. I then proceeded to put a stone in each square sporadically so as to make sure that it wasn’t all even. It’s supposed to be an organized chaos.

Now I will go back and put smaller stones on once I move. And then we will see how well it does. I am hoping to not remove the waistband, but I am sure I will have to.

When all your stones are placed attach a waistband. After the waistband is finished you can now hem your skirt.

I’m sorry if this tends to jump around a bit. A lot. It was one of the easier pieces to make of this project as there are no excess ruffles. The most time consuming thing was placing the stones and the hardest part was hemming it all. I don’t like hemming chiffon.

It is easier if you hem with fishing line and then remove the fishing line at the end. Just because chiffon is hard to keep hold of due to the shiftiness of it. Although I do recommend the narrow hem foot. That foot saved this entire project from ruin as the chiffon and organza was so fragile the overlocked threads pulled out if you tugged just a tad bit too hard.

If you have any questions don’t be afraid to ask. I do plan to redo this in the future, when I have more skill and lighter supplies, but for right now I am content. Thank you for taking the time to read this and have a good day.

Cinderella Live Action 2015…You Shall Go To The Ball… Part Four: Waterfall Petticoat

This one will probably be just as long as its predecessor. But as you can image this is just as big of a beastie if not bigger than the other. But that’s alright. Considering this is Cinderella we are talking about. She is supposed to be the belle of the ball. And rightly so.

As you can tell by now after having finished this piece I needed to hype myself up about this. Not because of how it looks, it’s positively gorgeous so far, but because of the sheer amount of time I have spent on this one costume. Longer than any other gown. I have reached the one-month one-week mark and I have just now finished the petticoats. And I have 20 days to go before con. With two other costumes that need to be made. This is going to be a long month. But the only thing left of this piece is the blog post, which is what I am getting at now.

This one petticoat ate more fabric than I thought possible. I have used roughly 170-ish yards total by the end of this. Hell, the top layer bottom tier had a little over 200 yards of strips in it. Which took me 4 hours, 4 minutes, and 16 seconds to hem. I know. I created a stopwatch of the process. That was just the outer layer bottom hem. I had to go to the store three separate times and to another town the last two because I purchased all the organza available in white, blue, purple, green, and even pink in my local store. It was outrageous. And time consuming. But enough of that, onto what you are actually here about. The process.

The gown started out with the drafting process as always. And if you have seen my Yvaine posts this process will look very similar to the making of that gown. (Yvaine will be the next set of posts, I figured by now that series would be up, but I was delayed in posting due to this ball gown.) I started out with six measuring tapes total. Then attached one at each of the following: center back, side, center front, side front, and two between center back and side. Place them with the 0 at the ground. Just touching the ground. The high number should be at the waist. From here you want to see how far up the petticoat you want the ruffles to start. I went with the third hoop down from the top. With that in mind the ruffle section would have to be 40 inches in length.

For this patterning I grabbed see through plastic. When you purchase whole bolts of fabric at Joanns they give you a large plastic bag for it. At this time and type of process you will need to be able to see through it. Which fabric just does not let you do. Using the bag with the bottom cut off and one side cut open I pinned it to the waist from the top, smoothed out the bottom edge as best as I could, and made markings on each tape at 40. This allows me to connect the lines later on when I am putting the pattern to paper.

This shows the exact same thing. But with an organza remnant instead of the plastic.

Then transfer the markings once you cut out to the pattern paper and mark out seam allowances. Cut this out of the sturdy organza. I don’t know the exact name for it. Bought it at an estate kind of sale. Where all the fabric bolts were 5 dollars apiece. I bought a lot that day. This fabric looks like a cross between organza and chiffon. The look of chiffon, but feel of organza. It came with 22 yards on the bolt. After they were sewn together, one edge was sewn as a French seam, while the other was sewn under. All edges were overlocked, just to stop the edges from fraying.

The following step involves some very easy math. You need to decide on how long you want to make the lower ruffle edge to be. From here just minus that from number you decided on before. My lower edge will be 11 inches, technically twelve inches with a seam allowances.  So the middle tier will have to be 29 inches, or 30 inches with seam allowances. I cut out enough to make two layers of this one. The process for this is fairy repetitive. And it does get a little boring. But the outcome is worth it.

You are going to want to put on a good show, preferably a streaming show, one where you don’t have to keep removing the disks and putting new ones in. This is going to be a very long process. And it spanned days.

These are the fabrics I had on hand for this petticoat,  not pictured are the extra fabric I have purchased. All of these are organza or various content and they all have more than one piece.

Start with the 29 inch sections, there is no real math to this process, there will be if you hand gather the ruffles. But with the ruffle foot I don’t know how much fabric it will use for each section. So I make sure to cut off what I think will be enough of the organza. Sometimes it isn’t enough and I will need to cut more. Other times it is too much and I end up putting the spare bits in a bag labeled ruffles. These will be used at a later date on this project or another project. We shall see at the end. When each of these are sewn together you are going to want to overlock the edges. Then topstitch the seam down, I use a decorative topstitch because I find them pretty.

After they are stitched together overlock around all the edges. This will help stop the fraying. And when it frays it is a pain. This will save you in the long run but is a very time consuming process. Then you will need to pull out the ruffle foot. It should go by fairly quickly. But if your machine is anything like mine the center point of the needle is not in the center. Thus if the needle is on the thin side like you should be using for organza the needles will have a tendency to break. I went through a lot of needles to figure out the best way to do this. The best way being is a thicker needle. The thicker needle won’t shatter when it hits the metal. Also you need to make sure that the metal slide pulls back fast enough so the needle doesn’t get hung up on it. That will also break the needles. When this happens you just need to make a couple minor adjustments or you need to oil your foot. I do both. Don’t oil too much, if you do you need to wipe off some of the oil.

After the ruffles are finished for the tier, pin them to the elliptical tier that will be on the waistband. This was when I realized that I had enough ruffles at this width to make this layer two separate layers that attach to this top tier. And that became the new plan.

The next step is to cut out the lower tier at 12 inches in width. Follow the same method as before. And this will be pinned to the middle tier that was attached.

The second layer is the exact same as the previous layer. And it attaches the same way. Not much to say about this. Hem these layers before you attach the top one. I hemmed both layers with a narrow hem foot and fishing line.

The final layer for this petticoat will need a new top tier this one shorter than the others. This tier will create the butt fluff that we need for the elliptical gown. I want the layers to be 51 inches total. That means with the front being 49 inches, the front will need to be cut off short. This will be explained later on. Besides that top portion that we pattern out for this layer there will be three bottom tiers. The long one that goes from the waist to the knee. The one that goes from the knee to low calf. With the final one being low calf to ground.

The total inches are 51 from the top tier, tier two is 25 inches, tier three is 15 inches, tier four is 11 inches. The steps follow the exact same as before. Just keep overlocking the edges after you sew them together. Then use the ruffle foot, you can change the stitch length to lengthen the ruffles or condense the ruffles. My bottom tier on the top layer ended up being roughly 200 yards. And that was awful to hem. This layer also weighs the most.

I cut out the top tier first. Completely sewed that layer together with overlocking all the edges. And after that you can get started on the other layers. First with the middle. Cut out the 25 inch tier overlocking all layers. Sew them together if you need to. Mine was just long enough to make it all the way around the layer without having to buy more fabric. The other layers are a different story. I used the ruffle foot and then proceeded to ruffle the whole layer. This portion will have to be pinned all the way up and over the waistband. To get the front not to drag the ground with the difference of the layers. When you cut out the excess there will be a half moon shape that gets cut off. That is normal. Place the petticoat back onto the dress form while you work on the other bits. And then it was sewn to the top tier. As well as top stitched down once the edges were all laying down correctly. I did have to unpick bits here and there. But it still worked out.

The third tier will be 15 inches in width. This one is considerably longer than the previous. Also made with multiple colors. After ruffling this layer, it was then added to the previous layer. Sewn up. But not completely, as I ran out of organza and had to go back to the store. Once I purchased more I then followed the same steps. With enough sewn together I attached it the other section where I left off and continued to sew this down. Then this was overlocked to clean up the edge and topstitched to the previous tier.

The bottom layer, the one that is 11 inches which I cut out to 12 inches, is just about 200 if not more yards long. This layer I ran out of fabric for twice. Because you don’t expect the yardage to be taken up that quickly. I used the same steps as before but because of the fabric dwindling I just kept having to add more and more fabric to the bottom section. The hemming was done with an overlocker, and then redone with the narrow hem foot and my regular machine. I also used fishing line, this one not wrapped up and boiled like the previous sections. I just used the spool it came on and left that on the ground as it slowly was used up. I still have about 30 yards left on that one, but it will be saved for a later date. With this completed the final thing is the waistband. Which I repeated the exact same waistband as the previous post.

Ta da! Mega fluffiness. The weight is a little tugging with the other layers, but that shouldn’t be too much of an issue.

Especially that there are only two layers left, the underskirt and the overskirt. Those shouldn’t be too heavy. At least I hope not. I love this piece so much I wouldn’t want to cut it up to make it lighter.

If you have any questions don’t be afraid to ask. And sorry for the lengthy post.