2018 Make Nine – New Look 6509/D0594 View A & D

This is my second and third make for the year. I know it is quite late and I should have at least half of them done by now. But I have slacked off and spent the time working on embroidery for a costume coming up. You probably won’t read a making of post until after the event has happened, but I have already begun writing them. Right now I am at 175 hours and I have just gotten to the halfway mark on the skirt. It’s monotonous, but I enjoy it to a point. That point has past and I want to be done with the skirt so I can get to the construction of the garments. I just want to feel like I am getting somewhere instead of being stagnant.

Back on track. I have decided at the beginning of the year that I wanted to make two of the items from New Look, actually I have three makes on my list, but only two from this pattern. It’s a romper and dress set. Both Sleeveless. Button closures on the straps and a back zipper.

I started with the dress. I began this project a few months back if you were on my Instagram. The pattern sizing only goes up so high in the bust and the bust is just a little too tight. I could do an FBA, Full Bust Adjustment, or I could just use a stretch fabric. Back then I was in such a hurry to get stuff done I put it aside for a few other things on my plate. But I picked it up with renewed energy to get to work. I still wasn’t ready for an FBA so I decided to use a stretch cotton for this piece. I have never used a stretch cotton before, but it was such great fabric to work with. I’ll definitely look into more prints in the future after I go through my stash.

Materials needed to begin:

Notions: Thread, 14” invisible zipper, and 2 buttons ¾”.

Dress: 45” at 1 and ¾ yard or 60” at 1 and ¼ yard of Batiks, Challis, Gingham, Denim, and Linen to name a few. (I used a meter of stretch cotton, I didn’t line it as I was treating this as a wearable mockup. And the fabric is thick it isn’t transparent.

Lining- 45” at 5/8 yard (I used the lining for the pockets as my fashion layer has a bit of weight to it that won’t be needed for the pockets.)

Interfacing-20”-25” at ¾ yard of fusible interfacing.

I didn’t take many photos of the process making the dress. I got more photos making the romper.

I began placing my pattern pieces on the fabric, using a fabric saving method. I don’t like to waste fabric by following the instructions unless it is absolutely necessary. Transfer all markings including darts, dots, and notches.

The first thing I did was to sew up the darts on both the front and back of the skirt and bodice. Then I sewed down the pockets and added the interfacing to the places marked on the bodice where the buttonholes are meant to go. That’s to help the fabric from pulling when you wear the garment.

(This is my first and second time adding pockets into a seam in the garment. It wasn’t tricky until I finished the garment and the pockets don’t lie flat. Maybe I need to stitch down one side of the pocket to a seam? I don’t know. I’m working on more garments after Padme.)

Both the bodice and skirt were assembled according to the directions and then attached together to prepare for the zipper. I didn’t add a lining as I didn’t want the stretch cotton to lose its stretch. The bust is too small for that. I should have test fit the straps, when I sewed up the straps I didn’t have enough room in them. I think the bodice doesn’t come up on me as high as it does others, I’m not a tall person. I’m 5’5”. No reason they shouldn’t fit. Because of this the buttons pull slightly, even with the interfacing. Next dress I make I will be sure to add some length to the straps. That and do a full bust adjustment.

Everything came together very quickly. It took me no more than 5 hours to make this. I didn’t set a timer, but once I cut it out it was a quick sew.

Next I added the zipper to test the fit. The bust was great, everything else was loose. It may look great in the photos because the fabric clings to my sweaters or tank tops underneath, but it’s fairly loose in the waist and hip area.

The bottom was hemmed with a 1/2″ hem.

The top was folded down and stitched into place with a zigzag stitch to keep the stretch. Here is where I noticed the top back pull away from me. It’s too loose in the back, even though my top measurement is 18, it’s my bust that makes it that size. When I remake this I will need to grade in the back so it’s flush against my skin but not tight.

 

 

Materials needed to begin Romper:

Notions: Thread, 14” invisible zipper, and 2 buttons ¾”.

Dress: 45” at 1 and 5/8 yard or 60” at 1 and ¼ yard of Batiks, Challis, Gingham, Denim, and Linen to name a few. (I used a meter of stretch cotton, I didn’t line it as I was treating this as a wearable mockup. And the fabric is thick it isn’t transparent.

Lining- 45” at 5/8 yard (I used the lining for the pockets as my fashion layer has a bit of weight to it that won’t be needed for the pockets.)

Interfacing-20”-25” at ¾ yard of fusible interfacing.

The Romper was harder, and I’m still struggling with if I like it or not. I also didn’t follow directions, maybe it would have been easier if I did, maybe not. It wasn’t particularly hard. I’ve made pants before. And I have made the dress. The only iffy part was the cutouts and hemming them. If I had lined it that wouldn’t have been an issue. But I didn’t. And I won’t, not for this one.

I started with the darts once again.

And then went into the pockets. For the pockets I sewed at the ¼” seam instead of the ½” seam. And then the pants were sewn together at the inseam, which is the inner leg seam. Front to back on both sides. Only the inseam. The Center front seam will get sewn when both front and back pieces connect.

Lay both sides on top of each other fashion sides touching. Stitch up the center front seam all the way to the back seam until you reach the notch. Don’t sew past the notch as that is where the zipper will be located.

Fold the pants inside out again and sew up the side seams of your legs including the outline of the pockets. I added a rectangle of a waistband on because I forgot to cut the pattern pieces out of the paper and I was too lazy to go back and find it. Because of this I made a little mistake and my stitching isn’t exactly the best.

I assembled the bodice the same way as the previous bodice. I just have more images here to share with you because I remembered to pull out my camera. I did make an error while assembling the back of the bodice. I sewed the pieces the wrong side together and had to cut the bodice apart because my stitches were so close together and such a well color match on the black that I thought it was useless straining my eyes to unpick the seam. It worked in my favor. The back of this piece fits me better than the dress.

For the cutouts instead of lining this I decided I would just make a facing. And by facing I just cut rectangles out and sewed them up in the place. The rectangles were trimmed and folded back, zigzagged into place. After the buttonholes were placed I stitched the bodice and the shorts together matching up seams and the back. The zipper was installed and I could try it on.

The fit was good. I have the same issue with the dress and the romper, the straps aren’t long enough, or they pull. I think it is the stretchy fabric that makes it that way. But I loved the stretch of the fabric.  I also discovered that I love the romper, just not sure it flatters my shape well, maybe if I used a more flowing fabric I would feel better. That is a goal of mine for the future.

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Would I make this again? Yes, once I get the FBA done so I can make it out of regular woven fabrics that don’t require stretch. I love it. And would love to get to make this out of other cottons and other materials. I’ve never done a full bust adjustment before, but I am excited to learn with you guys. If that is something you would like to see let me know.

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Author: consortcreations

This blog is all about my sewing adventures. Whether it be cosplay, historical-esque, or original designs. You will find all of those things here. I am 26, I have been sewing for a total of two and a half years. I started it as something fun, a small hobby. But it has turned into a bigger part of my life. Bigger than I thought it would be. I am completely self-taught. That is I had no first hand sewing teacher. I learned through the power of trial and error as well as reading blogs. The inspiration to sew came from many places. Television and literature being the two biggest. And I figured, I might as well try to make it myself, it would be more cost effective than paying someone else to make it. Besides how hard could it be? And boy was it hard. But then not so much. It is just trying something and if that didn’t work try it another way. If you have any questions, just ask. Or if you want to comment feel free.

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