The bodice has been interesting to pattern that is for sure. I already owned a velvet, but I knew I didn’t have enough to make the bodice and the sleeves. So to remedy that I decided to purchase a yard and a half of a satin in a light blue color. Lets say that didn’t work out so well. The bodice wasn’t cut out correctly. It was past midnight and I cut the pattern out.
Somehow the bust was a little tight. And by a little tight I mean that it wasn’t going to work out. It flattened my bust. Which wasn’t the look I was going for. I mean who would. To make it try and work out I cut down the center front, and by the time it wasn’t flattening my bust it was going to be indecent. At least too indecent for Snow White.
So, I put that one aside for now and pulled out the velvet.
I went back to the drawing board with my mannequin and re-patterned in case it was the pattern I made. Hoping for the best I cut my pattern out of the velvet. On the fold. Not facing the same direction. I made the top of the bust face the fold. I totally forgot about the nap of the fabric. And that if you cut out the fabric in different directions it will look like it is two different fabrics that you used. But I was lucky and thankful that it isn’t that noticeable. But it wasn’t like I had enough fabric to start with, it was the only way I could cut the bodice out of the velvet. I lined this one with a twill like I always do. Since the velvet is a stretch I flatlined it against the twill first with basting stitches. And then went around each edge with my overlocker.
With that done I sewed each panel together and made up the lacing panel. Because of the con crunch I went through I didn’t have time to fit this like I would every bodice mockup I do. And from here I try it on and fit it to myself. I take in what needs to be taken in. And then I repeat the same fit issues with the other side and sew them making sure they match up. It is a little harder to do this with a velvet. As the pile interferes a little with the seams. The fit at the bust was great. The back area was a little loose at the top, but not too noticeable to me. The major fit issue was with the waist, hips, and stomach. All were roughly a half inch too big. So I took in those seams.
Now was the time for the boning channels, and my boning channels are just your standard seam sewn down small enough to snugly fit the bone inside it. For boing I use 3/16th flat steel bones, 1/4th flat steel bones, and 3/16th spring steel bones. The flat steel bones are for the front and back seams. The larger width bone will be the center back seam that connects straight with the eyelets on the outer edge. The smaller one will be the front seam and the back seam that will be on the inside of the eyelets. The spring steel will be over the curved edges: the bust line, the waist and hips. The spring steel will curve over edges and not dig into your hips to cause pain. They will also curve in at the waist better.
I cut my bones down to the correct length, filed, and tipped them in nail enamel. I waited overnight for these to dry fully before I inserted the bones and finished the edge. The edges were finished with a liquid woven available at Joanns. I used that same liquid woven in Yvaine for the overskirt and parts of the bodice. I made bias tape, but not cut on the bias… So I just made tape…
The sleeves were a little on the harder side. I ended up not making them how I wanted them to look and then not having enough time to fix them. Since they aren’t all that bad I have yet to fix them. The only part that really needs fixing is the tightness of the cuff, as well as the bagginess of the sleeve. Maybe someday this will get looked at. I don’t have a picture of what the sleeve pattern looked like. But the sleeves were really wide and a little long. I cut the woven trim in sections to go around the sleeve vertically.
One piece was the width of my arm as the cuff of the sleeve. My seam allowance was just enough to fit my arm. So its not tight, but the trim isn’t delicate enough to not scratch or chafe my arm. That’s my only problem with Snow White.
The eyelets were the last essential piece to the gown. I used brass eyelets due to the time frame. If I had the time I would hand sew them in like I prefer.
Here comes the fun final part part, which didn’t happen until after I wore this to my first event. My white trim for the bodice needed to be the same color as the skirt. And since the dye didn’t take as well as I thought it would on the skirt I used the same color shot cans to make the trim gold as I used on the skirt. The edges were folded down and hand sewn on at the same points on each edge. Both the top and bottom were adorned with the same gold trim.
That finished the regal bodice.