With Arctic Comic Con and all the mini events and meetups I had for various groups I am in I was unable to make Agent Carters SSR Uniform for the movie/meetup like I had planned. Now I would have if the twill suiting been strong enough to support the weight of the jacket, but it turns out I really do need wool for that. I have wool now and will begin working on that costume at some point this year. I hope. My plans are really tight right now with prep for Arctic Comic Con, as it is I don’t have the time for Padme and she will need to be moved for a later date. Her embroidery man. I love the detail work, I just needed more time than the two weeks I allotted myself. (I also have my #2018makenine/#2018maketwelve to finish at some point this year as well as my #sewtogetherforsummer dress that I have planned for June. And then after that is Ren Fair first two weekends in June as well as Taikai Con. Then Steamposium in August and SenshiCon in September, but SenshiCon is three days this year.
Sorry for running off on a tangent, just have a lot on my mind. Back to the costume at hand. Agent Carter. This isn’t a full on costume. It is loosely based on a couple of her outfits. It’s just the flowiness of a 1940’s skirt pattern that she wears in a couple scenes, but the red of a form fitted pencil skirt that she wears.
Blouse and flouncy neck tie if you can’t find a blouse with one attached.
60” wide 2 and ½ yard of Red Stretch Crepe
20” wide 1 and 3/8 yard of fusible interfacing in the same quality of your fabric. (I am using stretch crepe so I will be using a stretch fusible interfacing.)
To start with I cut out the pattern at the largest size, which is 24. And then I folded down the size to size twenty. To get the length and waist to size twenty I cut notches out and folded the notches down until I had the correct size. That is how I keep the pattern sizes all there. It isn’t pretty but it is functional and if I have to make the pattern for someone else than I will still have the other sizes to use. You can trace with butcher paper, but I have yet to buy paper that thin. When I find some I will leave a link to it.
I want my skirt to only have one seam. And to do that we need to eliminate the side seam without the zipper. You can fold the edge of that side inward or you can guestimate the 5/8 inch off the side of the fabric you need to be. That’s what I did. I cut it. Made the zipper notch. And then went on YouTube to figure out how to do a lapped zipper. Videos are more informative than text to me. If you want the link to the video let me know in the comments below.
When all the pattern pieces were cut out and all markings were noted I stay-stitched the top of the skirt and let it hang overnight. The hanging of the skirt panel or panels will let the fabric stretch on the bias. Circle skirts are cut on the bias and have a tendency to stretch and warp over time on the bias leaving you with a wonky hem. The hanging overnight will lessen the warping you will get over time. If you are really worried you can let it hang a couple nights, but I have never had the need to do that and my other skirts are just fine.
Leave the stay-stitches in, they should be within the seam for the waistband that they won’t make a difference. I sewed up the edge to the notch. While my fabric was inside out I used a ruler to mark where the zipper was going to go. The left side needs to be turned in 5/8” while the right side needs to be turned in ½”. The finished zipper will lap on the right side. The easiest way is to use a washable tape and place it on the sipper keeping it in place. Don’t use pins like I did. They will leave ripples and they will shift slightly. The tape will not. Tape the right side of the zipper to the underside of the right side and sew this very close to the sipper teeth but not catching the zipper teeth with the needle. Then fold over the left side and tape the zipper in place. You are going to want to sew of the left side of the zipper close to the teeth but not on the teeth. When you reach the end of the sipper tape you will need to turn the fabric and stitch the zipper bottom over. Once again not catching the teeth. I did at the bottom and snapped my needle. I then spent the next two minutes finding and rethreading my needle. I also had to unpick that edge as the zipper shifted ever so slightly at the bottom creating pulling in the fabric. I redid the last two inches of the stitches and there was still some slight pulling, but not enough for me to unpick and try a third time.
Now we make the waistband. I used a fusible stretch interfacing that I already have on hand.
I fused the waistband to it remarking notches. But I didn’t listen to the notches when installing the waistband. I just matched up the edges leaving a 5/8” on the left side and the extra inch and a half on the right side. I folded it under stitched it in place with a decorative stitch. I chose one that looks like a heartbeat.
I should have tried it on at this point and taken up the hem. But no. I double folded the hem encasing raw edges and made the decorative stitch in the hem as well to match that to the waistband. I added the hook and eye closure making sure to leave my stitches on the inside so you wouldn’t see them on the outside. It wasn’t until she was done that I decided to check the fit and length. It is a little snug. And the skirt is also quite long on me. It should come up at just below the knee, but it is mid-calf. So I cut off the hem I made and cut off an extra inch or two on top of that and this time folded inward once hemming that. The double folded hem was a little too bulky for my tastes and the hem won’t need it because this fabric doesn’t fray.
Will I remake this pattern? Probably at some point, it isn’t my favorite skirt, I favor skirts with petticoats, but I am definitely willing to branch out. Especially now that I know how to do a lapped zipper. I do enjoy how sleek the skirt is. And I just need to remember that I am not the right height for this skirt to hit below the knee. It’s fairly easy and quick to make, the only hiccup is the zipper, but I am hoping it will be much smoother when I get the washable tape.
It was very windy the day I photographed. But that was expected. The town I live in is always windy. Sorry for the delay in posting this project. I’ve been busy working on another costume. Prewriting a few posts. And I’m nearly done organizing my sewing room. I had a lot of stuff going on. I should be back at a regular schedule soon. Thank you.