With the crinoline cage down and good to go I was ready to start on the petticoats. But I first figured I would add my not so historically accurate 1750’s skirt onto the top of the cage to see how the silhouette will look on the gown. It was very pretty…but not the shape I was looking for. For Belle or Ariel or any other Disney Princess dress with a huge skirt would perfect. But for Anastasia not so much.
If you research the real Anastasia Nikolaevna Romanova you will see that the majority of the portraits depicting her clothes for court were similar to the movie, specifically the final dress she wears. In a few of the images she wears what you can see is a Russian Court Dress. Most commonly worn between the periods 1900-1910 in Russia. (Correct me if I am wrong). With that in mind you will notice that crinolines/cages/hoopskirts were phased out by this time and a more natural silhouette was made using petticoats and small bum pads.
Now, I have a petticoat I plan to use that will be perfect for this project. Only thing, I don’t think it is big enough. So I am making another petticoat. I am thinking of using a netting for it. Or maybe a broadcloth. Or cotton with lace. I went through my stash of lace curtains and found a pair that were beautiful but not exceptionally beautiful that I didn’t mind it being used on a petticoat. On something that wouldn’t be seen.
For the curtains, I don’t have an exact measurement for the width or length. I just know they were purchased in the early 1990’s, I believe they were purchased here in the U.S. Or they could be older. I really don’t have a set day on them. The reason I mention that is because I have a few other curtains that are so beautiful that came from Germany where my mother is from. I refuse to use them for something that cannot be seen, and we cannot use them as curtains anyways because the dimensions are all wrong for the houses we have been in. (Maybe if you are interested in seeing what is in my stash I will make a post about them, just be aware it may be lengthy. It will be lengthy, I have an issue with buying fabric.)
The curtain had scalloped edges around all the sides. I cut down the fabric at the side cutting off the edges for the bottom. And the center bits were used for the top section. That left me with needing to purchase a bit of fabric for the center bits.
The petticoat has two layers and three tiers. Both of the layers have the same amount of tiers and fabrics. I didn’t shorten or lengthen anything between the two. Now, if I were to make a petticoat with five layers I would lengthen the tiers, like I have with one of my previous petticoats.
The only fabric I had to purchase was a broadcloth, for the waistband, and a light delicate rayon that matched the curtain material. It is a beautiful fabric from JoAnn’s, a cream-ish white with gold detailing. If the gold detailing was bigger and on a chiffon, you could make a very nice Sissi gown. But it isn’t. So no luck with that yet. But maybe one day.
The top tier of the petticoat, made from the curtain comes from my waist until my knees. The second tier goes from my knees to my middle calf, and the last layer goes from mid-calf to the floor. I wish I had more pictures or better instructions on how I constructed the petticoat, but I used curtains and I didn’t measure them first. When I recreate this petticoat for another project I will be sure to add more pictures.
The bottom tier I used fray check on the scalloped edge to keep that detail. And then I cut along the scalloped edge being careful not to cut through the fray check. When I finished with that I sewed both sections together and sewed the seam down by folding it inwards and sewing it down with a straight stitch. Gather the top edge down to create a long rectangle wide enough for the middle tier.
For the middle tier sew the two halves together, finish the seam and then you can pin the lowest tier onto this section. Sew it carefully to not stitch the gathers together where they shouldn’t be stitched. Next pin the seam carefully to the middle section and stitch this together
Repeat the steps for the top tier. And when you have all tiers sewn together it is now time to stitch up that free edge. Sew up the free edge until you get seven inches from the top. And stitch down the seams. It’s quite simple.
The waistband was the easiest part to do, I attached this waistband like I do for all my skirts with a drawstring. If it didn’t have a drawstring it would have a hook and eye closure like my others. The waistband is made from broadcloth. It’s basically a long rectangle with the edges of the shot side sewn inward. Then I folded it in half and ironed the edge to make sure it is crisp. The next step before even sewing the waistband on is to fold in one edge by a half-inch and iron this.
Now we can sew the waistband onto the skirt with right sides together from the outside. Then pin the seam up into the waistband, fold over the other edge the ironed part. Making sure to pin this edge to the inside.
The second to final step is to sew the free edge down by either hand stitching on the inside or stitching in the ditch from the outside. It’s very simple. And this petticoat is the version I make the most.
The final step is to thread the twill tape through the waistband and try it on.
Here are pictures with another petticoat underneath this one.
I hope you enjoyed reading how I made this piece. Feel free to ask questions. Second post will be about the underskirt. Until next time, bye.