Cinderella Live Action 2015…You Shall Go To The Ball… Concept and Design

Cinderella has been in the planning stages ever since I saw the promotional pictures and the trailer. I have been collecting organzas and chiffons for the better part of two and a half years. I finally figured I have enough fabric to start, but I ran out not once or twice, but few times. This will keep being updated in the separate posts. So please check the separate posts for added amounts if you plan to make this yourself.

This set of posts will talk about the big gown Cinderella wears to the ball. The maiden dress will come at some point. Maybe next year.

In the show you don’t get to see any of the undergarments worn unless she is dancing and the occasional twirl. But that doesn’t help you as much as you would like to think. They did post a news article in the Daily Mail from the UK. Here is the Link…

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/tvshowbiz/article-3026011/Yes-Lily-James-SHALL-ball-Swooning-Cinderella-fans-say-s-breathtaking-cinema-gown-fairy-godmother-designer-reveals-wove-magic.html

I don’t know if the link will remain active for a long time or not. But you get a glimpse as to what she wore in the film. It goes into details about how many gems are applied to the dress and everything like that.

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Promo Image for Cinderella 2015.

Undergarments:

Chemise- I have not had time to make a chemise. It is on the list.

Bloomers- 2 remnants of ¾ yard lace. 2-inch-wide satin, hooks and eyes. (They aren’t listed in the article. But when you watch the twirls in the movie you get a glimpse of something underneath. I’m hoping bloomers. But they look delicate. Hence the lace.)

Corset-3/4 yard twill, ¾ yard cotton, interfacing, spiral steel bones, spring steel bones, eyelets, hooks and eyes.

Crinoline- 1 ¾ yard of calico, 7 ¾ yard of grosgrain ribbon 7/8” wide, 28 ½ yard of ½” wide hoop wire, 1 ½ yards ¾” wide webbed belting, 4 yards tie strings, one buckle ¾” wide, 4 U-tips ½“wide. Truly Victorian patter TV 103. I modified their pattern to fit my needs. You can modify yours as well if you like. But that is optional.

Petticoats- (Godet Petticoat, Under Petticoat, and Over Petticoat. All petticoats will have their own blog post regarding them. They are just slumped together in this case for ease of use in purchasing materials.) 170 yards of various colors and effects of organzas. Mine ranged between mirror, pearlized, shimmer, and regular. With shades all between the ocean from blues to a couple greens, and purples, as well as pinks and whites. I was limited in my selection to what JoAnn’s had to offer. I tried some online shopping but was left very discouraged by quality. I’m fairly certain I was not looking in the right place. I have run out twice so far. And am in need of going back to the store. Although by the time you read this I will have this done. Satin, interfacing, and closure method. I’m a fan of the safety pin method. Fishing line. I used 60 lb. weight.

Ball Gown:

Underskirt-20 yards organza, 30 yards mirror lame in purple, satin, interfacing, closure method. Fishing line.

Overskirt-21 yards blue chiffon, 15 yards purple chiffon, 7 yards ice chiffon, satin, interfacing, closure method, crystal gems, E6000. Skirt hooks to attach to bodice.

Bodice- 1 yard satin, 1 yard blue chiffon, 1 yard organza, interfacing, lacis bones or plastic bones, eyelets or hand sewn eyelets, lacing, hooks and eyes, skirt hooks to attach skirt.

Bertha-1-2 yards organza, 1-2 yards chiffon, 50 butterflies, crystal gems, E6000,

Extras:

Wig- WIF LF244, E6000, and crystal gems.

Shoes- Think perfect silhouette heel, E6000, 10,300 crystal gems in various sizes. (Not exactly comfortable.)

1000+ hours to work on this beast before the con because you didn’t prep times well enough. I started 2 months before con month (con was the last day of September), but had a work trip where I couldn’t work on this for a week, and then one event, plus two princess meetups with my Disney group. It has been a long time. And if all went well I will have one other costume to show for. Possibly a third with the Pirate Pub Crawl. Until then, the next post will be about the Crinoline, with the bloomers following shortly.

(This post has been long overdue. And for that I am sorry. Life got away from me during the sewing process. As well as the recent move. I think I need to purge some of my fabric. But the need for wanting to keep it all is strong. So that may happen. Or not. Who knows? The move is over with now. Almost all is unpacked. But that is in the past. I am back now. And these posts should all come pretty quickly. There are roughly six or seven not including this one. I hope you enjoy.) And as always if you have any questions just let me know in the comments below or on my Instagram or Facebook. Thank you.

 

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Jill Valentine Resident Evil Part 2 Skirt

Sorry for the lack of posts. The current project I am working on has taken up all of my free time. Which is quite unfortunate because I have left some things on the back burner. Hopefully next week I will have posts up about Yvaine or a skirt. I am unsure at the moment. We will see.

This is the easiest post I could make. The skirt was easy. Although, I made a minor mistake that I rectified when I watched it again. Throughout the movie and promo pictures and all costumes I have seen of this during my research, I never once noticed the slit in the side of her skirt. It wasn’t until after I finished the skirt and was binding the corset that I looked up and saw the slit.

 That’s when I paused the stitching of the binding and started back on the skirt by cutting the bottom edge off. I went back to Joanns to get more of the sateen in grey to finish. This time only 4 inches. Which was more than enough. Onto that bit later. Here is the image I captured while watching the film. (I don’t own the rights to the image. If the studio wants me to remove it I will. If that happens I will write where I see the slit in the skirt. But I am hoping the image will provide no spoilers. {Most have seen the movie anyways, I am just not a fan of spoilers.})

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The skirt pattern started out as a pair of shorts. A vintage inspired pattern from simplicity. Like usual I cut out 4 sizes too small. If you have never made the pattern before or know how the sizing is from that company make a mockup. I know simplicity runs large. So even though the pattern says I am anywhere between 18 and 20 on the back of the envelope depending on bust or waist or hip, I usually cut a 14-16. Here is what my modified pattern looks like.

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The first thing I did after cutting out the material was to mark the darts and sew them.

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The two back skirt pieces are on the right while the front piece is folded in half. Then I placed these with right sides together and pinned them in place.

Sew the skirt of the skirt, not the back. We need to install a zipper in the back. With the sides sewn pin the back pattern together. And try on the skirt. I was shocked when I realized the pattern didn’t fit. It was too large. They put a lot of ease into the tight fitted shorts than I thought there would be. So, to help with this I pulled the skirt tight on one side and pinned and then repeated the same with the other. Until it was tight against my legs.

Remove the skirt and straighten out the pins on either side to make them even and try on once again. It was better. Still loose. But I figured I would need the zipper at this part to get it right.

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This shows how long I pulled in the bottom of the skirt. I kept the hips and waist the same because I would like to have the waistband on and zipper to get the correct fit over the waist and hips. (I should have just taken in the darts anyways before inserting the waistband. Because I am not too keen on tearing the waistband off the skirt and starting over with the zipper.)

Before attaching the waistband or zipper though I thought it was time to add the grey band at the bottom of the skirt. The grey band is just a rectangle of fabric. I folded it and sewed it in place.

Now was the time to attach the waistband and zipper.

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The package of the invisible zipper will tell you how to install it better than I can.

And with that I thought I was done. This was going to be simple and easy…

Until the slit in the fabric while watching the show and sewing the binding of the corset. As pictured above I knew I needed to make it more accurate.

The easiest way I could think of was to remove the bottom of the skirt. I cut the grey bottom strip off the skirt and purchased more to finish the skirt.

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Before you add the new grey strip to the bottom you need to seam rip that thigh slit. The slit should be on the right side. Once you rip up the seam stitch the top with a few back stitched and a small square to help reinforce the slit and stop the stitches tearing further up the thigh.

Here is where I attached the grey strip to the outside like you would bias binding, and stitch it down with a straight stitch, the length of the stitch is up to you.

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I folded the fabric inward to hand sew the edge shut.

The only raw edges should be the seams and the darts. I do need to take it in at the waist and the hips. If I wasn’t wearing a corset with this the skirt would have issues staying up. But since I accidentally bought enough material to make another one I may just modify my pattern again to fit better. That or go for a more stretchy fabric. As long as the fabric I chose had both a grey and a black.

Although since the top is corseted there is no issue with leaving the skirt as is, except the added bulk in the middle section from the extra fabric. But for now, I am not bothered to start over again. If I do, there will probably be another post about this creation.

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Here is a picture of the finished costume. The sun wasn’t behaving that day and the images are hard to see.

But onto another project. Stay tuned to find out what it is about. Thanks for reading.

Jill Valentine Resident Evil Part 1 Corset

Before I start let me tell you that I made this corset twice. Not through my fault. My sewing machine got some oil on the front panel of the corset. Now, I know this isn’t normal, but there isn’t anything wrong with my machine. I’ve checked. It just sometimes does this. (By sometimes I mean three times now since I have started.) And I can usually get it out of the material just fine. But since the fabric was fused with interfacing when I went to wash it the interfacing peeled away from the corset fabric. I have never had this happen before. I was shocked. With that knowledge now, I realize I should have just unstitched that panel and sew a new one in its place, but I didn’t.

Here are images of the failed corset for you to see.

Here are my supplies and my pattern.

As you can see the fabric is already stiffened with the interfacing, and prior to interfacing I needed to dye the fabric a darker shade. The blue wasn’t dark enough, and nor did they have any fabric besides a broadcloth that was the color I needed.

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The small swatch of fabric sitting on the top of the dyed fabric shows the original color of the fabric I used.

(Make a mockup if you have not used the pattern before. On all new patterns I use a mockup, I reduced the waist in this one a little bit more than usual to give myself some leeway. But I also accidentally reduced the bust and the hips. So this corset doesn’t fit well. unfortunately. So this corset isn’t ideal for me. Which is a shame because she is a really nice corset, well made.)

After you cut out all the pieces from the fashion outside and the strength layer you need to baste them together. Instead of basting I just serged the edges together. What isn’t pictured below is the second back panel. I cut out two back panels to give the grommets and bones something to grip onto. You can skip this step if you plan on lining your corset. But since this corset isn’t something I would wear to every con I feel like it doesn’t need a lining. If this was a base corset for a gown I would give it a lining. If I had the time for a lining.

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Then sew the center panels together, and then the outer bust panels to the center. Just keep going outwards until you get the grommet panel. The pictures show each stage of this, and of course to make it easier for myself I used the seam allowances as the boning channels by stitching a straight stitch the correct width away from the seam. Do this after sewing each panel so you won’t have to cram a lot of fabric under the foot at once.

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Now in the picture below the two panels on the corset are the second set of back panels that we cut out twice out of each layer of fabric.

Sew this to the back panel, then fold that spare back panel under. Stitch a straight stitch for that bone that supports the grommets. Then stitch a straight stitch wide enough to fit the grommets. And following that stitch line do another straight stitch wide enough to fit the bone on the other side of the grommets. For grommets to be really secure, in my opinion, you need a set of spring steel bones on either set of grommets.

Cut the boning out of spiral steel and spring steel boning. When I cut and tip the bones I lay them out where they are supposed to go in the channel. This way you only cut the bones for one side and then duplicate those bones for the other side. I tipped these bones a couple times, with nail enamel. If you would like to use tape you can. I do have bone caps for both sets, just they are tricky to get into the corset and not have too much room for the bone to twist. I find nail enamel to be a better fit. Even with the spiral steel bones because the caps those come with if you need to take the bone out you can’t always do that. The cap gets caught on the fibers of the corset and can damage the boning channel trying to pull it through or it can slide off the bone and get stuck in the corset. Neither of which will is good.

(Sorry for the color switch of the fabric. This is where I noticed the oil on the front panel and decided to start over. The fabric I used here was in my stash. I was hoping to save all the fabric for an upcoming costume, but I over bought for that costume and figured I could spare 20 inches.)

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Once I inserted the bones the corset had a better shape to it. With the bones in you have two choices at this point. Bind the edges or add the grommets. I opted to bind the edges first. And then changed my mind after only sewing the front of the binding on.

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Then I switched to adding the grommets, which pictured below is the holes for the grommets. I punch a hole into the fibers and then push the hole bigger with an awl. otherwise I feel the awl tends to damage the corset by forcing the fibers apart. And with just the punch it might not set the grommets in without having them tear out easily. So punch a hole, then insert awl to correct grommet/eyelet width, and add the eyelet.

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I still prefer the hammer method for eyelets. Even with the expensive press I have. Maybe one day I will actually learn to use the press with results I like. But until then the hammer is my go to. You are supposed to use a wooden or rubber mallet, but I just opt for my metal hammer. I can pound the grommet or eyelet in with one hit.

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Now you are almost done. The last task is to fold over the outer edge of the bias binding and hand sew in place. I use the ladder stitch. At least I am fairly certain that is what it is called.

Don’t forget a modesty panel.

I did. Woops. But since it is middle of January and roughly -10 outside I will be wearing the vest she usually has tied around her waist. As well as a camisole underneath the corset to protect the corset from body oils. It is easier to wash the camisole than it is a corset. Try to use one without straps or you will need to tuck them under the corset.

Also, if your corset closes or you don’t mind the look it has without a modesty panel you don’t need to have one. I find them finicky at times, but I do like to have them in case I need it. I also try to make all my corsets have at least an inch or two gap in the back. As I have been losing weight, not too noticeable, but enough that I cannot wear some of my corsets from two years ago that I made to fit perfect.

I will post a couple finished pictures next weekend to my Instagram. The final post will be on the skirt, which should have been super easy. But wasn’t. More on that next weekend.

As always, thank you for reading. I hope this has helped you in some way. If you are interested for a more in-depth process let me know in the comments below.

Jill Valentine Resident Evil Concept and Materials

This project shouldn’t require many materials. There isn’t much to her outfit anyways. I am a fan of the games, although I have only really played from 4 and onwards. I do own the other ones on my gamecube, but they rarely get played these days. The gameplay is a little off for me. I prefer the styles of the newer ones.

With the new movie, and supposed to be the final movie, I decided it was time to make my costume. Jill has always been a favorite character of mine throughout the games and movies. I originally wanted to wait to make this until I was more fit, as Jill is in great shape being a STARS member. But alas, I couldn’t give up this opportunity to portray her for the final film.

I chose her costume from Resident Evil Apocalypse, although she wears it in one of the games as well, I have watched the movie more than I played that game. I know she has a shoulder holster, I purchased one online almost two months before the movie, but it didn’t arrive in time. My thigh holster and utility belt did though. I didn’t wear it to the theater. Wouldn’t have been comfortable. And not sure if my theater would approve. Also, due to the weather, I did wear tights, as it was below freezing, and I also wore the cardigan instead of having it tied around my waist.

For materials you will need:

Corset-1 yard of blue fabric, if not blue a bottle of blue dye as well. Black twill, interfacing. Spring steel bones and spiral steel bones. Grommets, lacing. And all the rest of your corseting supplies you could need.

Skirt-3/4 yard of black sateen. 5 inches of grey sateen. 1 zipper about 7 inches. Interfacing for the waistband.

Odds and Ends- Almost knee-high black boots, thigh holster, utility belt, shoulder holster, fake guns, and a wig. I bought a cardigan for this costume, I could have made one if I had the time, but I figured that would be the easiest piece to find. (I don’t have a wig and I find it very unlikely that I will purchase one for this cosplay. As it is pretty low-cost costume, maybe that will change if I wear it to GamesCon. I’m just not a fan of wigs and the comfort they have.)

I would like to apologize for the long wait in my posts. I had a work trip to go to. And I have started the most in-depth costume I have ever made. It will definitely be a labor of love. I need to finish it in time. Most of the posts that are coming up will be posts from the past. No new material. Technically new posts as they have ye to be discussed. But the pieces will be all made within the past year. Also, I won’t share much about the big upcoming project. Thank you for taking the time to read this.

Anastasia Ending Ball Gown Pictures

Here are the pictures of my Anastasia gown. This was my first photo shoot, taken by my talented sister. The mosquitos were out, as well as bees, and all kinds of bugs. I’m not a bug person. Or a hot weather person. But it was lovely. These were taken at the Garden of Reflection: In Remembrance Of Those We Love. A beautiful and well-kept garden park. There were a lot of pictures to go through and they were all pretty great. These are a few of my favorite ones.

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Let me know what you think. Next post will be up within this week. I’ll have a poll up on my instagram for what you guys want me to post next.

Anastasia Ending Ball Gown Part 5 Crown and Circles

The crown was going to be the last piece I worked on, but other than the corset patterning, this was the first thing I worked on. My thought process on this involved purchasing fabric and sequins and gemstones and wire and paint. I already owned foam and buckram and liquid leaf. I figured I would make one and see how it goes. And if that one didn’t turn out I could make another one. I didn’t start photographing this process until I was about half way done.

My first approach to the crown was foam and wire. I wasn’t sure how well foam would look, especially for a crown that I wanted to look like it was real. I’m not sure how that will work with just the materials I have. My sequins are on the way; I should get them by the 25th. The rest of the bits I already own.

Starting out with the foam. I drew a set shape I wanted the crown to be and drew it on my foam. I only have two pieces of white foam. Not ideal for what I need, but I am hoping it will work. The size is 12 by 18 I believe; I didn’t measure it before I cut it. After cutting out and attaching the ends of the crown with a tiny amount of hot glue. Be very careful, I recommend E6000, but since this is just a practice crown I am okay with the hot glue method. Just so you are aware when you press firmly on the glued pieces there will be air bubbles that pop.

The first template wasn’t curved enough at the bottom. It just ended up looking all circular at the top. Not what I wanted. So I laid my pattern piece back down on the paper and drew the top edge on the foam and left a guideline at the bottom of where my marks were currently located. And then from the center mark I drew the pattern more rounded at the bottom. I want the top to curve outwards a little bit. Cut out your piece and glue the ends together a tiny bit. You need to be able to remove the glue when you have the correct shape you want.

The shape worked perfectly well. From here I should have drawn out the shape on another piece of foam for all the detail work on the front of the crown. That would have been easier. But instead I measured out where I want the crown to sit and decided I would attach the small rectangle at the back to keep the crown together. I grabbed the wire and wrapped the wire on the inside of the crown to get the correct length I would need. After wrapping the wire around itself a few times to be extra sturdy I thought now would be the best time to glue the wire on and get started on the details on the front.

Nope. Do this portion after the crown is traced out a second time on the foam, otherwise you will have to maneuver the crown on the foam to get the correct shape and the size of everything you need.

Follow the before steps for making the base metal work for the crowns sturdiness. With careful tracing out of the crown onto the foam I was able to get all the templates I needed for the crown details. I cut out two of each piece besides the front piece. And then proceeded to hot glue all the strips of detail work down. Make sure to press firmly, if you need to add more glue to make sure it is secure, go ahead and do so. If you added too much glue you need to wipe it off. Obviously my crown isn’t perfect. But I am very happy with it. I feel like it looks good for being my first crown.

If the glue is in one of the cracks you cannot reach then you can use the handle of a spoon to get the glue out, a metal spoon, not plastic. It will peel off of the metal spoon, but the heat may burn the plastic spoon.

I tested out my liquid leaf on a scratch piece of foam I had lying around, it sunk in and stiffened and became porous. I decided that I would need to lay down a base coat of something so I won’t waste the liquid leaf. I don’t own wood glue yet, or gesso or any other filler you could use. And considering it was eleven or twelve at night when I was working on this I couldn’t just head to the store to get what I needed. I did have Aleene’s original tacky glue in my stash for other projects I was working on and figured what would be the harm in trying it out.

The best way to do this is to add some water to the glue, it is very tacky and doesn’t spread easily like I thought it would. The first thing I did was pour some glue straight onto the centerpiece of the crown. Big mistake, I couldn’t get it to brush flat. So I took my brush and got a cup (pin cup, not a drinking cup) filled it with a tablespoon of water. Dip the end of the brush in the water and brush the glue, you may need to repeat several times to get the glue to smooth out. For the rest of the crown I poured glue into the water diluting it. I would rather brush on glue a few times for a smooth look than have to thin down the glue on the crown.

After the first coat, I went to bed and took a look at it in the morning before work. Low and behold it was pretty decent looking. Here is a picture of it.

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Not bad for my first crown. Of course when I got back home from work I needed to add more glue to the front to make a good base for the liquid leaf. I used about 4 layers of thinned down glue to get the base that felt smooth enough.

The liquid leaf should be used in a ventilated area, if you are a minor you should consult an adult, and by adult I mean your parents or guardian. After you add one coat of liquid lead you will need to dry it. Let it air dry. It shouldn’t take long, mine took about ten to fifteen minutes before I added the second coat of liquid leaf. Let it dry again. This time I waited thirty minutes. Even though it was dry much sooner, I still waited.

The next step, the easy one, I used a glitter paint, after painting a test area I didn’t like the coverage of the glitter and decided I would add some loose glitter into it. I didn’t have any silver glitter available. But I did own holographic glitter. So mixing the two together gave me better coverage. Not the kind I wanted, so I may go back and add some more to the back of the crown.

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After the glitter paint was dry I could add some gemstone/rhinestones. I just used the leftover rhinestones from my Evil Queen Costume. This was a strenuous part. Having to individually glue each stone on. It took a total of 8 hours I believe. I didn’t have a strip of stones I could use. And I didn’t want to risk using the heat setter on the foam or liquid leaf. That could have been bad. So I sat there and put each stone on by hand.

The quickest way to do this is to plop down a pea sized amount of glue onto the crown, spread it out with a tooth pick and then add the gemstones as quick as possible. The glue dries fast so if you use any more than a pea sized amount you won’t have enough time to add the stones before you need to add more glue down. This is a very arduous process. The glue I used is E6000, like the liquid leaf you will need mask or some form of protection from the fumes. I should have used my mask more, but I didn’t. I don’t have an exact amount of gems that I used for this crown, I didn’t keep count. I do know that there were 6000+ in the bag, and the bag still has plenty left. I didn’t even use half of the amount I owned, so, plenty for future purposes. Here is a finished look at the crown.

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Now onto the circles. These were fairly easier. Be warned I used my machine embroidery to make the circles. You can totally do this by hand, but it went by much faster using my machine. I had 18 circles total. The first step was to map out where I wanted the pearls to be. I realized I should have added fifteen or seventeen onto one, instead of thirteen. It would have looked much nicer.  I used pale pink pearls.

Here is the picture of what the circles look like.

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The next step was to add the seed beads linking the pearls to one another. This was a little slow in the process, but I knew it would be worth it in the end. The linking seed beads I used were a cream pearl color.

The last step was to add 3 seed beads to each pearl on the inside. The seed beads I chose for this step was gold. And that finished the process for me.

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I stitched them on by machine. I should have hand sewn them down, the result would have been much neater. And less stitchy. I can’t explain it, but hopefully the final pictures can show what I mean. There will need to be 4 circles on the bodice total, and the rest on the overskirt. Even on each side. And also even markings on both sides.

I have yet to add the cording for this costume, not sure when I will have the time as I am in the process of making the most challenging costume I have ever made. When I finish that costume and my other costume for SenshiCon I will hopefully get back to this.

That’s the end for this post. My next post will be about the pictures for Anastasia. Once I take better ones. I will get on that this week. Before one of the final pieces I need come in the mail for my upcoming costume. Until next time, bye,

Anastasia Ending Ball Gown Part 4 Bodice and Sleeves

I first want to start by saying sorry for such a long delay in posting. There was a renaissance fair here two weekends in a row and I was finishing up my costumes for both weekends. But enough about excuses, I am back. And I should have another post up on Wednesday about the crown and the circles for the bodice and the overskirt.

Patterning the bodice was fairly easy. I took my standard corset pattern and modified it. I made this pattern based on my measurements and my mannequin. If you have seen my Evil Queen/Regina Mills from Once Upon a Time than this corset pattern will be familiar to you. It is the best pattern I have made corset wise. Fits perfectly, or as close to perfect as I have been able to make. I do wish the waist was a little more reduced, but when I lose weight I will make another pattern. And then I can show you how I made mine.

Fair warning, I don’t have very many pictures showing the process of this construction. I am sorry about that. But as I explained before, I didn’t have very much time to complete this section as I would have liked.

Since you have already seen what my pieces look like laid out I won’t post a picture of it. On my modified pattern I added lots of space at the top to make sure I can get the silhouette just right. I am aware that it looks a little ridiculous. Just keep in mind that I will have to take it in at some areas at the top or bottom. Which will happen in the mock-up phase.

Cut out all the pieces twice for the mockup. Sew the panels together. To save myself some time in the mockup portion I only pin the top, and just hold and sew as I go for the rest of the corset. It works and I feel like I have pretty good control over the sewing machine for this part. But if you don’t feel confident than you can go ahead and pin the pieces. (To clarify I did pin the actual corset together. I wanted the neatest of edges as possible for the real thing.)

Here is what my mockup looks like.

I pinned my mockup to the mannequin and drew out what looked like the correct shape to me. Keep in mind that the original costume is straight on the top edge. Mine will be slightly curved in the front because I feel that shape would look best on me. I think it will work fairly well for my intended purpose.

Here is an image of the corrected pattern.

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But before I begin with any pattern cutting of the fabric I will need to wash the fabric according to the instructions on the bolt, or with my go to fabric washing method. (That would be using a light detergent, some softener and put it on the delicate cycle with a light dirt level, warm heat, medium spin. The dryer is on delicate, low heat and medium to extra dry.).

After washing your fabric, I recommend interfacing if you are using a satin. You don’t want the threads to pull apart at the seams and interfacing will help with that. When you have the satin interfaced you are now able to lay out your pattern pieces to cut out of the fabric. As you can see I did interface my fabric on the shiny side, as I thought the inside looked prettier than the outside. Just be careful interfacing the shiny side. It doesn’t adhere as well as it should. But I don’t mind.

Pretty simple. You need all the pieces of the corset on the goldish yellow fabric minus the center front which will have to be on a cream satin. The fabric and color scheme seem off if you haven’t had the opportunity to see the cartoon or see any pictures of the dress. The white satin also has the shiny side facing inward with the interfacing.

Once the fabric is cut out of the satin you need to cut out another section of each piece in a twill or coutil. Because of my location I opt for twill 90% of the time. I have tried canvas, but don’t have luck when it comes time to washing the garment because the garment shrinks and warps. (It could just be lack of experience from my end).

Flat line the interfaced satin and the twill together. That means to baste the layers together. If you would like to roll pin your layers while doing this you can. If you would like an in-depth video of how to do this I can post one in the comments below, it is by Lucy Corsetry. The benefits of doing this is it helps lessen the ripples you have a chance of getting when you lace your corset tightly.

After all layers are basted together you need to pin panels together. After pinning sew them together. And make sure to sew your boning channels now. Cut bias tape from the remaining gold satin fabric. You can interface the satin if you need it to be more sturdy. Or you can leave it, I left it alone. The interfacing needs to be roughly an inch and a half wide. At this part of the bodice you only need to bias bind the bottom edge. The top edge will come later.

Cut the boning a half-inch shorter to make room for the bias binding at the top to be added. I did not add bones to the center front or the front side seams at the bust. I would have if I had the correct spiral steel bones, but I have run out and have not had the chance to purchase more. And using just the flat steel bones wasn’t working because it compressed the bust in an unflattering way. Tip the bones now, so you have time to let it dry while you work on the eyelets. I made hand sewn eyelets. The brass and nickel eyelets I own do not match the color of the fabric.

Hand Sewn Eyelets-require buttonhole thread if you want it extra sturdy. I used just regular embroidery thread and beeswax. I tried the white beeswax in a plastic disk, didn’t like that one. It was grainy and just kept shedding bits of beeswax. Instead I used the beeswax block from Michaels and had no issues with things fraying or falling off. You don’t have to use beeswax, you can also use a thread conditioner. I didn’t have any though. The ideal way to make a hole for the eyelet is to use an awl. I didn’t. I couldn’t get the fabric to not pucker when I used the awl that I just went ahead with my punch. That does make the fabric more prone to fraying or the eyelets ripping out. But since I won’t be wearing this frequently I think I will be just fine.  You will also need some jump rings.

To make the hand sewn eyelets you need to mark out the placement on where the eyelets will be. I made my eyelets ¾” apart. I felt like that would be enough. That meant I had to sew 32 eyelets into the back of this bodice. 16 on each side. Insert the bones in the back before you start sewing eyelets. Punch holes in the mark of each eyelet. Lock a stitch in place, then add the jump ring to keep the hole from warping after continued use, the stitch you need to use is called an eyelet stitch. Fairly simple. The more you do, the better you get and the faster they are to do. Hint, start at the bottom. You get better with time. And you want the nicest looking ones at the top.

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Here is the sleeve mock-up.

Sleeves should be patterned at this point. The top will be straight, while the bottom will have a curve leading to a point. I made mine a little wide at the top because I wanted mini gathers. Cut the sleeves out of the white satin like the front of the gown as well as the pink scrollwork that was used in the skirt.

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This is the last picture I have of this bodice. I will take more pictures of the finished bodice and then add them in later.

Place right sides together sew around all edges leaving a mini gap to fit your hand. Turn inside out encasing the edges inside. Topstitch the outside to make it look neat. Before I placed it on my dress form I made sure to already sew a line of basting stitches at the top so when it was time to gather I could do so easily without having to run back to my machine.

I cut the fabric arm band that goes across the whole top bodice and around the back the width of my shoulders. If I lose too much weight, unlikely in that area, I won’t be able to take it in any further because I didn’t leave enough room for my arms. The band should be using the fabrics for the underskirt, since we want the same color scheme and not a new color for just one part.

The arm band is just a straight rectangle of fabric wide enough to fit your arms in and be able to hold the sleeves up. With right sides facing together on the rectangles, sew around all edges minus one to pull the fabric through. Once that s complete fold over one edge a bit and hand sew this down so stitching will not be visible from the outside. (Insert all bones at this point if you have not already done so.) Attach this to the front of the bodice on the first three panels, the center front and the side fronts on both side. Then you will attach the outer edges of the band to the back starting at the side back and ending at the back.

The only other steps at this point are attaching the circles and the cording as well as a modesty panel. Modesty panels are easy. It’s just two rectangles of matching fabric sewn together. Whether you bone the modesty panel or not is up to you. I left mine alone and didn’t add any boning to it. I can bone it later if I need to, but I think it will be just fine.

That is all for now, feel free to ask me any questions you have. And thank you for taking the time to read this. Until then I bid you adieu.